Select 2 very large, ripe cantaloupes. Peel and slice one of them, discard the seeds and filaments, and force the pulp through a fine sieve. Combine 1 1/2 cups water and 3/4 cup sugar and boil the syrup rapidly for 5 minutes. Stir the syrup into the melon purée (there should be about 2 cups), let it cool, and freeze it in the refrigerator tray until it is firm.
Cut a circular piece from the stem end of the second melon, reserving the plug. Discard the seeds and fibers and remove the flesh with a small French ball scoop. Sprinkle the melon balls with 2 tablespoons fine sugar, pour over them 4 tablespoons Port, rum, Curaçao, or maraschino liqueur, and place them in the refrigerator to marinate and chill. Chill the melon shell as well.
Place the shell on a bed of cracked ice, fill it with alternate layers of the melon ice and the marinated fruit, and replace the cover. To serve, spoon the mixture from the shell onto chilled serving plates.
This exclusive recipe is pulled directly from Gourmet's archive. It has not been re-tested by our food editors since it was published in the magazine, but it's a pretty good indication of the kinds of things we once cooked—and ate—with great pleasure.
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