We call for 14-pound turkeys in our Thanksgiving menus (see Maple-Glazed Turkey with Gravy; Spiced Roasted Turkey; and Stuffed Turkey with Lemon, Oregano, and Red Onions) because one will serve eight to ten people with some leftovers; it will also fit into most home ovens and can be easily lifted in and out.
But if you want a monster turkey, it’s not necessary to sacrifice succulence or flavor. For starters, make sure it is completely thawed. That means 24 hours in the refrigerator for every 4 to 5 pounds of meat, so a 20-pound turkey will take about five days. Let it stand at room temperature for an hour before roasting; for best results, don’t stuff a turkey this size; and let it rest for a good 30 minutes before carving.
When we tested 20-pounders at 350°F in both conventional and convection ovens, we found that rotating the birds 180 degrees was crucial: They wouldn’t have cooked through evenly, otherwise. We rotated about three times—every time we checked the temperature (which should register 170°F when the bird is done)—and we checked the temperature with several instant-read thermometers in several places: the side of each breast; going down into the thickest, innermost part of each breast; the side of each thigh; and going up into the thickest, innermost part of each thigh. At 350°F in a conventional oven, it took about 3 3/4 hours and yielded tender, juicy white meat. The legs, which looked slightly underdone, weren’t; they were superb. A convection oven cut the cooking time drastically: The bird was done in about 2 1/4 hours. If your turkey is even larger, you might have to tent it with foil during roasting so that it doesn’t overbrown.
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