1950s Archive

Tricks of my Trade

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Calf's Feet Vinaigrette

In the summer, when aspic is needed for many cold dishes, calf's feet are usually cooked with stock in order to extract the gelatin from them. The meat which clings to the cooked bones is always used in France for hors-d'oeuvre. Remove the meat from the bones and serve it either lukewarm or cool, but never icy cold (when too cold, it is firm and stiff). Serve with French dressing (see below) mixed with finely chopped parsley, chives, and tarragon,and garnish with chopped hard-cooked eggs.

Fresh Calf's or Lamb's Tongues

In a saucepan combine 2 tablespoons flour, 2 to 3 tablespoons vinegar, and the juice of 1 lemon. Add 2 quarts water, 1 tablespoon salt, and the calf's or lamb's tongues. Bring the water to a boil and cook the tongues for about 1 hour, or until lender. Cool the tongues in the liquor, then cut them into thin slices, and arrange in a ravier or bowl. Spread sliced or chopped sour pickles and chopped hard-cooked eggs over the slices. Moisten with French dressing, and sprinkle with chopped parsley and chives.

French Dressing

Combine 1 teaspoon prepared mustard, ½ teaspoon salt, a little pepper, and 1 teaspoon lemon juice, or 1 tablespoon vinegar. Add 4 tablespoons olive oil, little by little, stirring vigorously until the mixture is well combined.

Calf's or Lamb's Brains Vinaigrette

Wash the brains in cold water and remove the connective membranes. Soak the brains in cold water for a few hours. changing the water occasionally. Make a court-bouillon of 2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, 5 peppercorns, half an onion, and 1 small carrot, both sliced, a fagot of 1 stalk of celery, 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley, a little thyme, and 1 small bay leaf, all tied together, and enough cold water to cover the brains. Add the brains to the court-bouillon, bring to a boil, and simmer for 25 minutes. Remove the brains from the cooking liquid, cut them into slices, and spread the slices with chopped hard-cooked egg. Cover the brains with French dressing and sprinkle with finely chopped chives, tarragon, and chervil. if available, and a few capers.

Red Wine Marinade for Hors-d'Oeuvre

Follow the directions for white wine marinade, substituting 4 cups red wine for the 3 cups white wine and omitting the vinegar.

Marinated Anchovies

Clean fresh anchovies, sprinkle them with salt, and let stand for 1 to 2 hours. Cook the anchovies in just enough oil to cover the bottom of a shallow pan for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden on both sides. Transfer the anchovies to a bowl, pour over them a white wine marinade, and marinate in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. Serve in a ravier. Garnish the edge of the dish with Strips of pimiento and chopped hard-cooked eggs and sprinkle the anchovy filets with capers and finely chopped parsley.

White Wine Marinade for Hors-d'Oeuvre

Stew 1 onion and half a carrot, both sliced, in 2 tablespoons oil until the vegetables are tender but not brown. Add 2 stalks of celery, minced, 1 tablespoon chopped shallot, 1 clove of garlic, chopped, a little thyme, 1 small bay leaf, A sprigs of parsley, 8 to 10 peppercorns, 1 clove, ½ cup vinegar, and 3 cups white wine. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer slowly for 30 to 35 minutes.

Eels with Paprika

Cut eels, skinned and cleaned, into pieces 1 to 1 ½ inches long. Saute 1 small onion, chopped, in 1 tablespoon oil until the onion begins to turn golden. Add the cels, 1 tablespoon paprika, 2 cups white wine, or enough to cover the fish, 1 tablespoon chopped shallot or onion, a little thyme, 1 bay leaf, 1 stalk of celery, minced, 3 sprigs of parsley, a little salt, and 6 to 8 peppercorns, Bring to a boil, cover the pan and simmer for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the fish is tender. The bones should separate easily from the meat. Stir in 1 teaspoon gelatin, softened in a little cold water, and cool. When cold, remove the bone from the center of each piece of eel and cut the meat lengthwise into filets. Put the fish in a serving dish, strain the cooking liquid over it, and chill in the refrigerator. Sprinkle with paprika just before serving.

Cherries for Hors-d'Oenvre

Wash and dry firm red sour cherries, remove the stems, and put the cherries in a sterilized jar. Combine 2 cups vinegar and 2 cups brown sugar, bring the mixture to a boil, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add a few cloves, a piece of stick cinnamon, and a few strips of lemon rind. Cover the cherries with the spiced vinegar and seal the jar. They will be ready to serve in a few weeks.

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