Everything else about the old mill was perfect—the pebbled garden sheltered with low trees, the promenade along the banks of the lazy Marne, the rowboats and fishing poles which were ours for the asking. The old mill has been converted into a rustic dining salon of great charm. Monsieur Tournoud and his son, whose Restaurant des Fleurs in Paris is well known, are experienced restaurateurs. There are comfortable rooms for guests seeking complete tranquillity. The wine list is impressive. The soufflé an kitsch was delicious. Only that unconquerable fragment of veal gristle stands between the Moulin de Poincy and complete contentment. We leave the decision up to you!
Dormans (Marne)
This little town on the banks of the Marne offers the migratory gourmet an unusual inducement in the form of a nineteenth-century château, now converted into a country inn called LA GRAVOISH. The broad farmlands of the château have been turned over to the real-estate boys, but La Gravoise retains the fine old garden and the terrace overlooking the river valley. Here one can sit and enjoy an evening apéritif and watch the trains go by, some of them almost silently on rubber tires. We might as well be frank about it—Dormans is on the main Paris-Strasbourg line, and there is a recrudescent rumble throughout the night.
That needn't affect your enjoyment of the superb fare which Monsieur Loevenbruck provides for his guests. A topcategory Parisian chef presides over this cookstove. His quiche Lorraine was light and fragrant, and his poularde au champagne was a positive sublimation of that docile bird. A flawless and inexpensive blanc de blanc accompanied these delicacies. The prices are above the average, but the cooking justifies them.
Châlons-sur-Marne (Marne)
This wind-swept city on the broad plains of the Champagne has been an agricultural and military center for centuries. The first large base behind the Champagne sector of the Western Front, it was familiar to thousands of American soldiers of World War I, some of whom have doubtless spent the night and enjoyed a hot bath at the venerable HÔTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
The fine French tradition is still studiously preserved in this old-fashioned hostelry. The reminiscent ex-doughboy will find everything just as it was, including the ancient valet de chambre and the dignified but gentle patronne behind the desk. In the high-ceilinged dining room he will find an admirable choice of dishes, some of which may taste vaguely familiar. Well they may, for they are prepared by Monsieur Georges, who has been standing over this ample cookstove for thirty years.
The wine cellar still contains some treasured champagne of the great years, and it will be served in old-fashioned flûtes by neat, capable maids dressed in the costume current in 1900—nothing changed. The Hôtel d'Angleterre is a glance into the past and a genuine tribute to the way things used to be done.
Sept Saulx (Marne)
Visitors to the moss-grown trenches of the Monts de Champagne will find an unexpected oasis of good fowl and wine in the fiat little town of Sept Saulx (Seven Locks) about twelve miles southeast of Reims. This is the RESTAURANT CHEVAL BLANC, an unpretentious inn built around a courtyard. It doesn't look impressive, but its cooking will surprise you. It has a sheltered garden and a fine cellar featuring some seductive vintages from Villers-Marmery.
For generations this modest inn has been a favorite with army officers stationed at the flat and cheerless Camp de Châlons in nearby Mourmelon-le-Grand. When army food became too deadly, there was always Le Père Chauffert and his welcoming White Horse to provide a rustic evening of good food and wine. Now the son of Monsieur Chauffert has taken over. To judge by the tables filled with all ranks from sub-lieutenants to five-stripe colonels, he is upholding the old tradition with glory.
Verzy (Marne)
The most breath-taking panorama of the vineyards of Champagne is obtained by climbing the roads which wind around the Mountain of Reims. Between Verzy and Verzenay, whose hilltop is still crowned by an ancient windmill, the view is superb. After your exclamations have died down, it might be time for luncheon. If this is the case, the HÔTEL BEAU SITE in Verzy offers a fairly good answer—and a continued panorama. The food is quite good, a trifle expensive perhaps, and the cellar yielded a beautiful bottle of Villers-Marmery.
Sézanne (Marne)
It seems quite safe to crawl out on a limb and make the bald statement that the top gastronomic shrine in the Champagne is located in the unassuming town of Sézanne, about sixty-five miles west of Paris, and that its name is the HÔTEL DE FRANCE For almost a quarter of a century this country hotel has been a confidential favorite with French gastronomes. They haven't been able to keep their secret, it would appear, for the place is immensely popular. If you want a room for the night, get there before five o'clock.
Monsieur Boucheron is a celebrated and talented chef, and he has trained his stuff in the highest tradition of French cooking. The service is deft and attentive, and the choice of menus and individual dishes is all that you would expect in a fine Paris restaurant. Praise of Monsieur Boucheron's prowess is emblazoned on numerous diplomas and testimonials from dining clubs. He is accustomed to kudos and takes it in his stride. But he was not quite prepared for the recent invasion of American journalists and color photographers who included him in a story about the Guide Michelin. They were sweeping up flash bulbs for days and still uncover them in the most unexpected places—flower pots and wine baskets.
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