It hardly seems necessary to list the culinary splendors of the Hôtel de France in Sézanne. We tried a poularde de Bresse cooked in the red wine of Bouzy and an English sole braised in champagne. Both were impeccable. The prices are very fair, indeed. The Hôtel de France deserves the top bracket among the hotels of the Champagne. Period.
Troves (Aube)
This ancient city in the southern part of the Champagne has an astounding number of medieval houses still standing in its twisted streets. In spots it is grotesquely picturesque. Furthermore, its Cathédrale of Saint-Pierre is an inspiring Gothic structure, reason enough to include Troyes in your Champagne trip.
There is one excellent restaurant in Troyes, facing the marketplace, the RESTAURANT LE BOURGOGNE. It is spotless, well-appointed, and cheerful. A young and enterprising restaurateur, who knows good food, has made this into the best stopover for the discriminating traveler.
Pont Sainte-Marie (Aube)
On the outskirts north of Troyes, across from a noble old Gothic church, is the HOSTELLERIE PONT SAINTE-MARIE, a pleasant country inn catering to the motorist. We found the area jammed with plushy American automobiles bearing Belgian license plates, a fair indication of the quality of Monsieur Duquesnoy's cuisine. The Belgians know their food!
The roast fowl rules the roost here. Poulet de Bresse à la broche is an obvious choice after one has seen these plump, golden pullets turning on the spit. The beef-eaters aren't forgotten, however, for there were some wonderful chateaubriands sizzling over a fire of vine cuttings. The prices seemed a little high, but there is no denying the quality of the Hostellerie Pont Sainte-Marie.
The regional cookery of the Champagne is not strikingly original. The good local cooks are adept at making their own versions of quiche Lorraine, pot-au-feu, and mateclote. Pieds de porc à la Sainte-Menehould, one of the classics accepted in the hierarchy of Trench dishes, originated in the north of this province, and there is no finer way of presenting pig's trotters. In case you shy away from this humble commodity, the Sainte-Menehould method may be applied to chicken with equal success. The recipes for both dishes follow.
We quote a few other Champagne dishes which adapt themselves to the American kitchen, but we really don't expect you to squander a bottle of vintage champagne on them, unless you have a few cases left over from that wedding. A good dry white of American origin will serve the purpose very well, even if the ultimate tang of champagne is missing from the sauce.
Flamiche aux Poireaux (Hot Cream Tart with Leeks)
Slice thinly enough white parts of leeks to make ½ pound. Sauté them in butter until almost soft and season with salt and a little pepper. Mix them with 1 ½ cups white sauce, made with 1 generous tablespoon each of butter and flour and 1 ½ cups light cream. Mix in 2 tablespoons diced bacon, lightly cooked but not browned in a little butter. Simmer for 3 or 4 minutes and pour into an uncooked pastry shell. Dot with butter, bake in a hot oven (400° F.) until the crust is golden on the edges, and serve immediately.
Matelote Champenoise (Fresh-Water Fish in Champagne)
Cut into fairly thick slices 4 pounds of fresh-water fish, combining equal quantities of eel, pike, pickerel, and carp. Whitefish and trout may be substituted for some of these, but eel is essential. Heat the pieces in 1/3 cup melted butter mixed with 4 shallots and 2 cloves of garlic, all minced, 2 cloves, a pinch of cinnamon, salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, and a bouquet garni composed of thyme, bay leaf, parsley, and tarragon.
When all is heated, add ¾ bottle of vin d'Ay, or champagne. Cover and cook over a fairly hot fire for 20 minutes. Light 1 tablespoon warmed brandy and pour over the surface. Remove the bouquet garni and lay the slices of fish on a heated dish to keep warm. Blend 1 tablespoon butter with ¼ tablespoon flour and stir gradually into the sauce. Simmer for a minute and pour the sauce over the fish. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, surround by little crescents of flaky pastry, and serve.
Potée des Vendangeurs (Vintners' Soup Pot)
Soak a slice of ham, weighing 2 pounds, and ½ pound lean bacon in cold water for several hours. Dry and brown them, together with a large pork sausage, in an iron pot. Add 3 or 4 quarts hot water, or enough to make a plentiful soup, and simmer for about 1 ½ hours. Add 3 or 4 carrots, 3 or 4 white turnips, 6 leeks, 1 cup dried Lima beans, soaked and half-cooked, and a cabbage, cut in quarters. When these are partially cooked, add a few peeled potatoes. Add more hot water if the liquid reduces too much.
When the vegetables and meat are tender, pour some of the soup into a tureen over slices of roasted French bread. Serve the meat on a platter, surrounded by the vegetables. A jar of good Dijon mustard on the table, and you have a hearty meal, complete.
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