When you are fortunate enough to obtain quail or other small game birds, remember this cooking method, a favorite in the Champagne. First you must have a fine hot charcoal fire reduced to red embers. Then prepare a stuffing:
Sauté 1/3 pound lean bacon, diced, add 1/3 pound chicken livers (calf's liver may be substituted), and season with salt and pepper. When lightly browned, moisten with 2 tablespoons brandy and simmer for a minute. Remove from the fire, chop the meat into coarse pieces, and blend in 1 egg, beaten. Add 3 ounces foie gras and 1 truffle, chopped. Fill each quail with this stuffing and wrap it in a large leaf from the grapevine. Tie a thin strip of bacon around each and wrap in three layers of buttered heavy butcher's paper.
Bury these choice little packages in hot ashes and cover with glowing embers. Cook for about 40 minutes, depending on size. Remove the papers only and place each quail and its vine leaf on a slice of French bread fried in butter.
Pieds de Porc à la Sainte-Menehould (Pig's Feet Sainte-Menehould)
Split 3 cleaned pig's feet in two lengthwise. Sprinkle plentifully with coarse salt and let them stand for 24 hours. Wash them thoroughly, place the halves together, and sew each pig's foot firmly in a piece of cloth. Simmer very, very slowly for 4 or 5 hours in a court-bouillon containing 1 carrot, 1 onion, a bouquet garni, garlic, salt, pepper, and a few cloves. Cool the meat thoroughly in the liquid.
Remove the feet from the pot and discard the cloth bags. Cover each piece with melted butter, coat with fine bread crumbs, and grill rather slowly on all sides for about 20 minutes. Serve the pieds very hot, accompanied with a strong mustard.
Poulet Sainte-Menehould (Chicken Sainte-Menehould)
Salt and pepper a 2 ½-pound broiler and rub it on all sides with oil. Broil it, not too close to the flame, for about 10 minutes on each side. Remove and coat the underside with well-beaten egg, spreading it on with a pastry brush. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs, coat with melted butter, and sprinkle with more bread crumbs. Replace under the broiler for 2 or 3 minutes, or until the surface is browned. Repeat the operation with the upper side of the chicken, slide it onto a heated platter, and serve.
Pinterest
