We won't delve into the picturesque history of champagne here, or its manufacture, great names, and vintage years. The whole story, from the venerable monk Dom Pérignon to the sprightly Widow Clicquot, has appeared at different times, in GOURMET, most recently in June, 1948. But a word or two about the still wines may be in order. Champagne nature, the unmanipulated wine of the region, is one of the most delectable of dry white wines, a worthy rival of the best produced in Burgundy or Alsace. It is a joy forever with fish and shellfish, with ham, chicken, and a whole repertory of entrees. It reposes in most good cellars in two forms—blanc de blanc and blanc de noir. One is pressed from white grapes, one from deep-blue grapes. The former is thought better, but the blanc de noir has its incontestable charm.
The native of Champagne loves the wine he grows. He drinks his champagne nature daily with meals, and his wife uses it in preparing her regional dishes. On Sunday he orders sparkling champagne at the corner bistro. When the circumstances call for a red wine, he has that, too—a very presentable ruby nectar from Ambonnay or Bouzy. (To foil the pointed remarks of the prohibitionists, they really should change the name of that last village!)
Aside from its unique wine, the Champagne has one other gastronomic treasure—cheese. The noble, flat Brie and the more compact Coulommiers both come from the western reaches of this province. When these creamy classics are at their peak of ripeness, there simply aren't better cheeses. Now that the French restrictions on the cream content have been loosened, they achieve that peak often.
The Champagne is not the most beautiful of French provinces. Its thick forests have a sameness, and its chalky fields are sometimes monotonous. Its villages are often squat and austere, cringing from the rude winter and quite unconcerned about problems of street-cleaning. Its farmhouses are inclined to be flat and colorless. Occasionally, however, one comes upon a sketchworthy farm, such as the one here reproduced.
The architectural plane of Champagne's churches is much higher, beginning with the sublime Cathédrale de Reims, the scene of the coronation of so many French kings. Other notable cathedrals are located in Meaux, Châlons-sur-Marne, and Troyes, not to mention the extraordinary church of Notre-Dame de l'Epine, a flamboyant Gothic structure of cathedral proportions located in an insignificant hamlet outside of Châlons. The Champagne is dotted with country churches and minor châteaux, some of which are very charming. All told, the architectural fare is good, perhaps even a shade above the gastronomic level.
The traveler in search of good food and lodging will neither be disappointed in the hotels of the Champagne nor find anything extraordinary. In the Ardennes and the Aube, the choice is restricted, and in Reims, the glorious capital of the Champagne, the situation is adequate but not inspiring. Along the place Drouet-d'Erlon in Reims, where most of the hotels and restaurants are concentrated, one finds a variety of comfortable places and acceptable restaurants. Elsewhere in the province, however, the story is more interesting. Here are some recommendations following visits to the Champagne during the past two summers:
Meaux (Seine-et-Marne)
North of this historic town, the taxicab army of the Marne made the immortal attack early in September, 1914, which resulted in a vital French victory. There are several monuments commemorating the battle, including a writhing American one which has been repeatedly described as “mixed wrestling.” A more impressive attraction is the Cathédrale of Saint-Etienne, whose massive, single towered bulk dominates the countryside.
It might be a good idea to visit the cathedral around noon-time, for just opposite its west façade is a pleasant gastronomic prospect. This is the REIAIS SAINT-ETIENNE, a clean and civilized restaurant whose best dishes are prepared by the patron himself. Monsieur Bacoury. An excellent prix fixe luncheon, including service and a delicious bottle of blane de blanc, came to about two dollars apiece. Monsieur Bacoury's terrine, a spiced game pâté of particular charm, was the only specialty we tasted, but his canard au sang and filets do sole buttressed with lobster ought to be worth trying.
In case you wish to spend the night at Meaux, the HÔTEL SIUÈNE offers a rather unusual experience. This old-fashioned inn is established in the former hôtel parliculier of the Marquis de Montcalm. It is a charming seventeenth-century building, remodeled and modernized, but still rich in the atmosphere of the Louis'. Monsieur Pelletier is an experienced host and a gifted cook, adept in all phases of his art. A delectable dinner is a foregone conclusion.
Poincy (Seine-et-Marne)
In the course of this Champagne trip we encountered several recommended restaurants which, by unanimous consent, had best remain nameless. There was a hung jury, however, in the case of the delightful old MOULIN DE POINCY, a short distance from Meaux. After mature deliberation, the offended member of the jury has decided to waive her objections to a tough, reheated, sinew-strewn morsel of veal in view of the utterly sublime sauce which covered it and to hope that it was all a ghastly mistake.
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