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The artfully simple food is a tipoff that Tina's (760 Route 99W; 503-538-8880) is no ordinary roadhouse—that and a temperature-controlled wine cellar with stellar bottles such as an unfined and unfiltered Archery Summit Red Hills Estate Pinot Noir. Here, a juicy rib eye is likely to be from a Painted Hills steer, and a goat cheese soufflé in a chunky tomato sauce made with Cypress Grove chèvre. The kitchen's pear puff pastry tart and plum and blackberry cobbler vie with Portland's best sweets. Tina's, in fact, is a restaurant you'd go out of your way for, and from Portland you easily can.
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