1950s Archive

Tricks of my Trade

continued (page 5 of 6)

Season a 4- to 4 ½-pound loin of pork with 1 teaspoon salt and put it in a deep roasting pan. Roast the meat in a moderate oven (375° F.) for 1 ½ hours, or until brown, turning it several times. Remove the pork from the pan; pour off the fat. Make a pan gravy with stock or water and stir to dissolve all the browned juices in the pan. Thicken with a little beurre manié. Set the gravy aside to be reheated and served with the cooked meat and vegetables.

Mix 8 potatoes, peeled and sliced, with ½ cup chopped onion. 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. 1 teaspoon salt, and a little pepper. Spread the seasoned potatoes in the roasting pan and sprinkle them with 2 tablespoons incited butter. Put the meat on top and spread it with 2 tablespoons of the gravy. Add about 1 cup hot water, or enough to come to the top of the potatoes. Cover the pan, bring the liquid to a boil, and braise in a moderate oven (350° F.) for about 1 ½ hours, or until the bones separate easily from the meat and the potatoes are golden brown. Reheat the gravy and serve with the meat and potatoes. Serves eight to ten.

Gigot d'Agneau Braisé (Braised Leg of Lamb or Young Mutton)

Trim the skin and surplus fat from a 6- to 8-pound leg of lamb and season the meat with salt. In the bottom of a kettle large enough to hold the leg put 2 tablespoons fat and spread over it 3 onions and 3 carrots, both sliced. Add a faggot of 2 stalks of celery, 4 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay leaf, and a little thyme. Sprinkle the vegetables with 1 tablespoon flour, cover them with cracked lamb bones. and put the leg of lamb on top. Cook the meat in a moderate oven ( 375° F.) until it is brown all over, turning it frequently.

Add 1 ½ to 2 cups water or stock and 2 or 3 tomatoes or 1 cup canned tomatoes. Cover the lamb with a piece of buttered or wax paper, cut to fit the pan, with a small hole in the center for the steam to escape. Cover the kettle, reduce the oven temperature to 325° F.and braise for 3 to 3 ½ hours, basting the meat from time to time. During the cooking add more water or stock if needed. Remove the lamb from the kettle. strain the gravy, and skim all the fat from the surface. Correct the seasoning with salt. If the gravy is too thin, cook until it is reduced a little. Serve with potatoes and any desired vegetable.

Gigot d'Agneau Braisé à la Guillère (Braised Leg of Lamb or Young Million à la Guillére)

Follow the recipe for braised lamb, omitting the flour sprinkled over the carrot and onion. Cook the meat 4 to 5 hours, or until it is so tender it can be served with a spoon, It must be basted often to keep it from becoming dry, and stock must be added to the gravy as it is reduced. As the meat cooks and is constantly basted, the rich gravy is absorbed and the meat becomes very succulent. The gravy should be reduced by half. Thicken it by adding 1 tablespoon arrowroot mixed with a little sherry or Madeira, correct the seasoning, and strain it through cheesecloth or a fine sieve. Serve the lamb with potatoes, elbow macaroni, or noodles and braised celery or braised endive, or other desired vegetables.

Gigot d'Agneau Braisé aux Navets (Braised Leg of Lamb with Turnips)

Follow the recipe for braised leg of lamb. Parboil 12 white turnips, cut in quarters, and 18 small white onions for 5 minutes and glaze them in butter until lightly brown. Add the vegetables to the gravy about 15 minutes before the meat is done. Remove the lamb and vegetables from the kettle, thicken the gravy if necessary, and strain. Slice the lamb and serve with the vegetables and gravy.

Epaule d'Agneaa Farcie (Stuffed Shoulder of Lamb)

Have the butcher bone a shoulder of lamb and chop the bones into small pieces. Stew I onion, finely chopped, in 1 tablespoon butter until the onion is soft. Add ½ pound of sausage meat or finely chopped leftover meat. 1 cup fresh bread crumbs, ½ cup chopped cooked spinach, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 egg, ½ teaspoon salt,and a little pepper, mix lightly, and spread this stuffing over the boned lamb shoulder. Roll up the meat, tie it securely with string, and season with salt.

Pur I tablespoon fat in a pan deep enough to hold the rolled meat and spread over the fat 2 large onions and 2 large carrots, both sliced. Add a faggot made of 1 stalk of celery, 4 sprigs of parsley. 1 bay leaf, and a little thyme. Put the cracked bones over the vegetables and lay the rolled lamb on top. Spread 1 tablespoon fat on the meat and cook in a hot oven (400 to 425° F.) for 50 to 40 minutes, or until it is brown all over, turning from time to time.

Sprinkle 1 tablespoon flour over the vegetables and add 1 cup hot water or Stock, ½ cup canned tomatoes, and 3 fresh tomatoes. Cover the lamb with a piece of buttered or wax paper, cut to fit the pan, with a small hole in the center for the steam to escape. Cover the pan. reduce the oven temperature to 350° F., and braise for 2 hours, basting often. If the liquid cooks away, add more water or stock, Transfer the meat, carrots, and onions to a serving dish. Strain the gravy, correct the seasoning. and skim off the fat. To serve, slice through lamb and stuffing and serve with gravy, carrots and onions, potatoes, and any other desired vegetable.

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