1950s Archive

Tricks of my Trade

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Foie de Veau Braisé Bourbonnaise (Braised Calf's Liver Bourbonnaise)

Lard a whole calf's liver with small strips of larding pork and season it with salt and pepper. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a casserole and spread over the butter I cup sliced onions and ½ cup sliced carrots. Add I clove of garlic and a faggot of 1 stalk of celery, A sprigs of parsley, 1 small bay leaf, and a little thyme. In a skillet brown the liver quickly on all sides in 2 tablespoons fat, transfer it to the casserole, and cook over low heat until the onions and carrots Man to brown. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon flour over the vegetables and mix all together by shaking the casserole. Add 2 cups red wine and enough water to come to the top of the liver. Cover the casserole and braise in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 2 ½ to 3 hours, turning the liver several times to cook it evenly.

Transfer the liver to a serving dish. The sauce should now be reduced to about one half its original quantity; if necessary, cook it a little longer. Strain the sauce, skim off the fat, and serve with the sliced liver. Serve with potatoes and any desired vegetables. This dish may also be served cold with a salad.

Jarret de Veau au Riz Milanaise (Knuckle of Veal with Rice)

Saw 6 veal knuckles into 1 or 1 ½ inch pieces, season them with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour. In a frying pan saute the pieces of knuckle in 5 tablespoons butter until they are well browned. In a casserole melt 2 tablespoons butter. Spread over the butter 1 large onion and 1 large carrot, both chopped. Add 1 bay leaf and cook until the vegetables start to brown. Add 1 clove of garlic, crushed, and put the pieces of knuckle on top of the vegetables. Add 5 ounces of white wine,1 ½ tups tomato purée, and 1 cup water or stock. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the casserole, and braise ! slowly for 1 ½ to 2 hours on top of the stove or in a moderate oven (350° F.). Remove the knuckles to a serving dish, strain the sauce over the meat, and sprinkle with chopped parsley mixed with a little grated lemon rind. Serve with rice milanaise.

Riz àla Milanaise (Rice Milanaise)

In a saucepan cook 1 onion, finely chopped, in 2 tablespoons butter until the onion starts to turn golden. Add 2 cups rice and mix well. Add gradually 4 cups boiling chicken stock, stirring constantly. Add ½ teaspoon saffron. cover the pan, and cook the rice over very low heat for about 16 to 18 minutes, or until the stock has been absorbed and the rice is tender. If very soft rice is preferred, use an extra ½ cup stock and cook a few minutes longer. Add I tablespoon butter and 1 or 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan and mix carefully with a fork to prevent crushing dunce grains. The rice should nor be mushy, but the mixture should be creamy. Correct the seasoning and serve immediately.

Longe de Veau à la Vichy (Loin of Veal à la Vichy)

Season a 3- to 4-pound loin of veal, with the kidney, with 1 teaspoon salt and a little pepper and sprinkle it with flour. In an earthenware casserole brown the veal in 3 tablespoons hot butter. Remove the meat to a plate. Add to the casserole 18 to 24 small white onions and 6 to 8 carrots, cut in pieces. Sprinkle the vegetables with 1 tablespoon sugar and cook until they are brown. Add I clove of garlic, crushed.

Return the meat to the casserole and add 4 ounces of white wine, 3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped or 2 tablespoons tomato sauce, ½ cup stock or water, and a faggot made of I stalk of celery, 4 sprigs of parsley, 1 small bayleaf, and a little thyme. Bring to a boil,cover the casserole, and simmer over low heat for 1 ½ hours. Add 2 cups fresh peas and 6 green leaves of lettuce, finely chopped, and braise 45 minutes to I hour longer, adding a little more stock or water if needed. There should be just enough gravy to serve with the meat and vegetables, Remove the meat to a serving dish, discard the faggot, and serve the vegetables and gravy with the meat from the casserole.

Côtes de Veau Braisées àla Chartrer (Braised Veal Chops à la Chartras)

Season 6 inch-thick veal chops with a little salt and white pepper. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a shallow casserole and sprinkle over the butter 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion. Place the chops side by side in the casserole. Mix together 2 cups fresh bread crumbs and 1 cup grated Parmesan. Cover the chops with this mixture, pressing the crumbs and cheese together firmly to make a compact rounded topping, and sprinkle with melted butter. Add 5 ounces of white wine. Cover the casserole and braise in a hot oven (400° F.) for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until the meat easily separates from the bone. During the cooking add water, a little at a time, as the liquid is reduced and baste the chops to give them a golden brown color. If the topping cracks, press it together firmly but carefully.

Transfer the chops to a serving dish, Pour the gravy from the casserole into a saucepan, bring it to a boil, and thicken with 1 tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch mixed with a little cold water or stock. Correct the seasoning and strain the sauce through a fine sieve or muslin cloth. Serve with a purée of spinach, a purée of lettuce and chicory, or with peas, carrots, or other vegetables.

Longe de Pore Boulangère (Braised Loin of Pork Boulangère)

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