1950s Archive

Tricks of My Trade

continued (page 2 of 3)

A coupe is almost any combination of ice cream, water ice, fruit, sauce, and whipped cream. In this country a coupe is usually served in a tall, slender glass, but in France it is just as often served in a bowl-shaped glass dish. Peach Mary Pickford, which is half a peach topped with coffee ice cream, dressed with apricot sauce, and decorated with whipped cream, is a coupe, as is the belle dijonnaise already described.

Coeurs and souffles glacés are ways of molding and garnishing mousses. For a coeur, the mousse is molded in individual or large heart-shaped molds; after it is unmolded, a sauce or fruit and a sauce are poured around it. Then chocolate leaves, praline (see January, 1951), or other suitable decorations are added.

For a soufflé glacé, the mousse is molded in a soufflé dish with an inch-wide rim of paper extending above the edge of the mold so that when the mixture is frozen the paper can be removed and the frozen mixture will extend above the dish to look like a soufflé. I once made a special soufflé glacé for Geraldine Farrar and named it for her. My trick that time was to put in another rim of paper that left the center empty and to pour the mousse in between the outside and inside rims. When the soufflé was frozen, both pieces of paper were removed, and the center cavity was filled with fruit flavored with a liqueur and the lop decorated with whipped cream. In large establishments the coeurs and soufflés glacés are frozen in special brine cabinets, but at home they can be done in the freezing unit of automatic refrigerators or freezers.

How to make a simple but delicious bombe at home? Are there any tricks? Well, I think a fruit ice such as orange or raspberry for the outside and a center of vanilla mousse is a very delicious combination. You can purchase the water ice. Then you can make the center in one of two ways.

Vanilla Ice Cream Mousse

Let 1 pint of vanilla ice cream stand at room temperature until it softens just a little and fold into it ½ pint heavy cream, whipped stiff. Although this is not a true mousse, it will give you a mousselike texture when frozen. Have the mold as cold as possible and the water ice very firm when you spread it on the inside and the ice cream or mousse in the center. And the trick is to fill the mold to the very top and cover it with a piece of wax piper. If the cover fits tightly, there is little chance of water seeping in. But an extra precaution is to dip a strip of cotton cloth in melted shortening and wrap two or three layers of it around the seam of the cover. The cold hardens the fat which seals the mold from salty water. Bury this in the two-to-one mixture of ice and salt and allow 2 to 2 ½ hours for it to harden.

The other way to make the mousse is with either a pâte ft bombe foundation or an appareil à mousse. The pale ft bombe is a cooked mixture of egg yolks and sugar syrup to which whipped cream and flavoring are added. The appareils can be either cooked or uncooked mixtures of egg yolk and sugar to which whipped cream and flavoring are added. The advantage of the cooked mixtures is that after he egg yolks and syrup have been cooked, they can be kept in the refrigerator for two or three days. It is easy then to add cream and flavor when ready to make the mousse. The uncooked mixture won't keep but must be froqen immediately.

Pâte à Bombe

Bring ¾ cup sugar and ½ cup water to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Let the syrup cool. Blend 4 egg yolks in the top of a double boiler and add the sugar syrup gradually. Add soma of the fine seeds from the inside of a vanilla bean for flavoring. Cook over hot but never boiling water, stirring constantly until the mixture becomes creamy and thick. Rub the cream through a fine sieve and whip until it cools.

Mousses from Pâte à Bombe

For a vanilla mousse, whip 1 pint heavy cream until stiff, flavor with vanilla, to taste, and fold into the above amount of pâle à bombe.

Or omit the vanilla and feld in ½ cup melted chocolate for chocolate mousse; coffee extract to taste for coffee mousse; or flavor to taste with a sweetened fruit purée—strawberry, peach, and so on. Freeze in the freezing unit of an automatic refrigerator, at the coldest setting, or in a mold buried in ice and salt.

Appareil à Mousse (Uncooked Mousse Preparation)

Stir the yolks of 6 eggs until they are broken up and add gradually ½ cup sugar. Beat together until creamy. Whip 1 ½ cups cream until stiff and fold into the egg-yolk mixture. Flavor with the seeds scraped from the inside of a vanilla bean; or with ½ cup melted chocolate; or with coffee extract; or with sweetened fruit purée to taste. Freeze in the freezing unit of an automatic refrigerator, at the coldest setting, or in a mold buried in ice and salt.

Appareil à Mousse (Cooked Mousse Preparation)

Make a vanilla sauce as follows: Scald ½ cup milk and ½ cup light cream with a piece of vanilla bean in the lop of a double boiler. Heat 2 egg yolks until light, add ¼ cup sugar, and combine with the hot liquid, Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly until the mixture has a custardlike consistency. Strain through a fine sieve and cool. Fold in 1 cup heavy cream whipped stiff. Freeze in the freezing unit of an automatic refrigerator, at the coldest setting, or in a mold buried in ice and salt.

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