Chambéry (Savoie)
The ancient capital of the Dukes of Savoy is a gracious, picturesque city, dominated by its immense ducal château. It has undergone many vicissitudes, including considerable damage during the recent war. Its Italian background is recalled by rococo chapels and arcaded streets, but it is overwhelmingly French now. One of the best French vermouths comes from Chambéry. It is not quite so dry as the others and, chilled, is delightful all by itself as an apéritif. Chambéry fraise is an accepted classic in all good French cafés. If you are just passing through Chaméry, gastronomic adventure lies not in the city but on its outskirts. This is the famed RESTAURANT MONT-CARMEL, in the village of Barberaz. It is located on the route des Charmettes, about a mile southeast of Chambéry. Here you are welcomed to the establishment of Monsieur Audibert, a master chef who has built up a formidable reputation among the fines fourchettes of the region. There is an inspiring vista of the valley and the mountains from the Mont-Carmel dining terrace, and Monsieur Audibert's cooking possesses a majesty comparable to the view. His individual approach in preparing trout, omble chevalier, crayfish, and game of the region should enchant both the refined palate and the robust appetite.
Aix-les-Bains (Haute-Savoie)
It would be impertinent to “say a few words” about this universally known watering place. For two thousand years people have been coming here for thermal treatments, and the remains of Gallo-Roman baths are here to prove it. It is one of the great spas of the world, set like a jewel near the shore of the lac du Bourget. A ville d'eau with much more to offer than mere water, it has everything for the cosmopolite—casinos, golf courses, theaters, and hotels palatial in size. There is a shortage of palatial names, however, because one hotel bagged three of the classic names all for itself. It's the Hôtel Splendide, Royal et Excelsior. Needless to say, you can dine handsomely here or at the casino or in a dozen other imposing palaces. If your taste runs to simpler spots, we think you will be happy at the AUBERGE DES QUATRE VALETS, a cheerful, mondain restaurant facing the shaded square Boucher. Your host is Monsieur Quatrevaley, and with a name like that he could hardly avoid naming his auberge as he did. He has an ace up his sleeve, too, in Monsieur Ricard, the cook. Here are regional specialties in plenty, omble chevalier à la crème and the unctuous gratin de queues d'écrevisses among them, with those fine wines from Crépy, Digny, and Seyssel to set them off. There were three menus last fall, ranging from two to three dollars, and they were skillfully served. So there are multiple reasons to recommend the Inn of the Four Jacks.
Saint-Félix (Haute-Savoie)
This little town is about midway between Aix-les-Bains and Annecy, very near the borderline between the two départements. This accounts for the name of the RELAIS DES DEUX SAVOIES, an inviting roadside spot with a colorful terrace. It requires more than a beguiling name, however, to account for the popularity of this epicurean relay post. The secret, of course, is in the cooking, which is done, believe it or not, by a gentleman named Monsieur Secret. He is especially gifted in preparing feuilleté au fromage. If you are partial to luxurious desserts, you will never forget his vacherin glacé.
Annecy (Haute-Savoie)
A lyric poet is needed to describe this fascinating old town and the mountain-framed crystal lake which takes its name. There couldn't be a more charming place for a vacation, even if you were a dyspeptic. But if you are interested in food, it becomes an epic experience. The borders of the lac d'Annecy embrace a constellation, a cascade, a feu d'artifice, of wonderful restaurants. It doesn't take long to drive around this opalescent lake, a matter of some twenty-five miles. You can also do it by boat in an afternoon. But a fortnight is needed to sample all of its epicurean treasures! One famous gastronomical journalist who contends that good food is one of the two reasons for living also contends that no rural area in France can compare with the concentration of cooking splendor from Easter to October around the Lake of Annecy. Merely to enumerate them is an awe-inspiring task.
Annecy is unpretentious compared to Aix-les-Bains, but its hotels are comfortable, its pastry shops seductive, and its cafés gay. We look a particular affection to the TAVERNE DE SAVOIE because it was one of the rare places where we could order a truly light dinner after a regal lunch somewhere along the lake. It is a part of the Splendide Hotel and a charming place to read the paper and indulge in a picon citron. It should not be confused with the AUBERGE DE SAVOIE, which is a rustic spot down near the canals, adjoining a Renaissance church. Here is probably the best food in Annecy, and a fitting place to sample the famous omble chevalier. Tournedas aux morilles is another unforgettable specialty of Monsieur Milanési's cook. Prices are a bit above the average, as they are in most of the restaurants around the lake.
Duingt (Haute-Savoie)
This little town jutting into the lake is very likely the most picturesque village along its shores. It faces Talloires and its culinary radiance with a challenge in the person of Monsieur Fugier and his HÔTEL DES LIBELLULES, which means dragonflies. The hotel occupies a privileged promontory on the lake, quiet, comfortable, tree-shrouded. A particular accolade must go to the cook, Monsieur Durand, who has presided over this wonderful kitchen for twenty-seven years. A week in this sheltered inn with the panorama of the lake and the prodigal plenty of Monsieur Durand's regional dishes—that's living!
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