1950s Archive

An Epicurean Tour of the French Provinces

Savoy

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Chavoire (Haute-Savoie)

In this little town, about three miles southeast of Annecy, is an imposing temple of gastronomy, PAVILION ERMITAGE. It sits high above the lake, its garden sparkling with flowers and awnings, a seraphic setting for Monsieur Rostang's inspired food. You have a master chef here, one who raises regional cookery to an absolute pinnacle. Try his soufflé de quenelles aux écrevisses, and you'll be convinced of his genius.

Talloires (Haute-Savoie)

The conscientious gourmet is in a dilemma when he arrives in this lakeside village, for here is the most glittering concentration of all. Four alluring alternatives present themselves during the season. You can't possibly go wrong with any one of them:

AUBERGE DU PÈRE BISE is the famous one, the most Lucullan-looking and with the choicest segment of lakefront. You enjoy the fastidious fare, made famous by Le Père Bise and loyally perpetuated by Monsieur Marius Bise, in a shaded pavilion at the water's clear edge. The food, the service, and the wine cellar are magnificent and impeccable, for want of better words. It belongs right up in the top rank of postwar French restaurants and is expensive, but worth it.

HÔTEL LE COTTAGE, within a stone's throw, is supervised by Monsieur Georges Bise, who carries on the family tradition for superlative cooking. The dining terrace has, needless to say, a superb view of the lake. The rooms are pleasant, the prices within reason, and the culinary splendor quite beyond my range of rosy adjectives.

HÔTEL DE L'ABBAYE is something different again, an ancient monastery which has been converted into a summer hotel. It is rich in eighteenth-century atmosphere and a charming spot for a vacation. True to the Talloires tradition, Monsieur Tiffenat serves a superb table.

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