Vineyards prosper in these rugged valleys, although the tempestuous autumn often makes the vendange a period of acute anguish for the wine-grower. The wines of Savoy cannot be dismissed as just local wines. They have finish and style, but they are poor travelers and must be sampled on home territory to reveal their elusive virtues. The names most worth remembering are Seyssel, Digny, Crépy and Marétel, all whites. They are dry and full, with overtones of flint stone. Some oenophiles detect the aroma of truffle in a Digny and a faint whiff of the violet in a Crépy. Experts and amateurs alike will react with enthusiasm to Roussette de Frangy and Roussette do Seyssel, two lovely wines haunted with the perfume of almonds. At the top of the list is a regal nectar called Altesse de Frangy, which, depending upon the year, can be either liquorous or dry. It is supposedly pressed from a grape which was brought from Cyprus by a prince of the House of Savoy.
Among the red wines of Savoy most acclaim seems to go to those from Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte and Montmélian.
Geographically, Savoy is tucked in by Switzerland, Italy, and the two French provinces of La Bresse and Dauphiné. It is composed of two départments, Savoie and Haute-Savoie, and it is in the latter that the gourmet finds his happiest hunting ground. Everyone agrees that it is one of the most concentrated areas of good food in France. The list of fine Savoy restaurants is long. Here are some of the more notable tables:
Evian-les-Bains (Haute-Savoie)
This is probably the most untagged town in Savoy, basking on the shore of lac Léman, luxuriating in casinos, villas, and a world-wide reputation for mineral water. Lord Byron was enchanted by Evian, and thousands of visitors agree with him, all except for that 22 per cent tax on their bill. Something quite different in the way of a hotel awaits you in Evian. It is the HÔTEL LA VERNIAZ, an ancient domaine on a plateau overlooking the town. In its lovely park are scattered eight little chalets for guests, where you can spend a few days in Edenlike surroundings and enjoy your meals in a flowered courtyard. Monsieur and Madame Verdier, your hosts, are very food-conscious and provide regional specialties for their guests, including salmon trout and that unique féra from the lake. The wine list contains some, unusual items, including a Ripaille which has the unmistakable aroma of a peach. The prices are very fair, and it would be wise to write ahead for one of those chalets!
Maxilly-Petite-Rive (Haute-Savoie)
In this little town about two miles east of Evian on the shore road, is the HÔTEL LUMINA, a modern and comfortable establishment with individual terraces for each room and a pleasant garden leading to the lake. Such a description applies to all sorts of neighboring hotels, but the extraordinary cooking of the Hôtel Lumina sets it apart from the others. Here are those superb fish again—omble chevalier au Chambertin, féra à l'estragon, truite au champagne—and here is the plump poularde de Bresse perfumed with the herbs of Savoy. Monsieur Devaux has a nice cool Crépy in his cellar to accompany the feast. In case you need to work up an appetite, the hotel provides canoes, rowboats, and the facilities for a preprandial dip in the lake.
Annemasse (Haute-Savoie)
In this town, which is practically on the Swiss border and within walking distance of Geneva, you will find a master chef who, in his youth, won the contest to determine the best worker in France in his chosen profession. His name is Monsieur Schweckler, and he still presides majestically over the kitchen ranges of the HÔTEL DU MIDI. His repertory is impressive, and you are certain to sample something special, depending upon the season. It may be bécasses flambées or perdreaux vigneronne or canard à l'orange or coq au vin. Or perhaps he will propose filet de féra à la crème, accompanied by a cool bottle of Crépy. But whatever happens, don't miss his terrine savoyarde!
Sallanches (Haute-Savoie)
The Savoyard experts say that one of the most breathtaking of all views of Mont Blanc is from Sallanches, at sunset. This is the classic point of departure for Alpinists and a prime favorite with discriminating gastronomes and summer visitors, who are very fond of the aquatic splendors of the neighboring Mont-Blanc-Plage. The mountain-climbers have sought out one particular place for decades. It is called LA CHAUMIÈRE, but it hasn't any straw roof, as its name might indicate. Its architecture, in fact, is banal. It bases its fame instead on the careful and highly individual cuisine of Monsieur Carl. The meals are copious, well served, and reasonable in price.
Mégève (Haute-Savoie)
This, of course, is the skier's Paradise, to coin a phrase. With two téléphériques, a ski school, numerous ski tows, and a skating rink, it has about everything, including admirable hotels. We didn't go there, it being September, but everyone told us that the best choice for lunch is the RESTAURANT L'HOSTELLERIE, and all the guidebooks agree.
Chamonix (Haute-Savoie)
Chamonix is perhaps the smartest, most cosmopolitan place in the Alps; during the skier's season and in the summer months it enjoys equal popularity. Its site, in the heart of the most spectacular mountain valley in Europe, defies description. Incontestably, Mont Blanc makes a titanic backdrop to a luncheon. Even if the cooking of Savoy were so-so, you would never forget a luncheon served in a flowered terrace in Chamonix, facing the majesty of this sublime mountain range. But the fare is far from indifferent, especially if you choose the terrace of the HÔTEL DES ALPES as vantage point. This is a hotel with a noble tradition, having been under the direction of the Lavaivre family for over ninety years. It is gay and luxurious, with a park, tennis courts, and a rustic bar. And the food is exceptional. Try a suprême de volailles aux morilles or a féra farcie and you'll undoubtedly share our enthusiasm for the Hôtel des Alpes. There is no extra charge for the most overwhelming mise en scène in Europe.
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