1940s Archive

An Epicurean Tour of the French Provinces

Upper Burgundy, Including the Départements of Côte d’Or and Saône-et-Loire

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Escargots à la Chablisienne (Snails Chablis)

Boil together 2 cups dry white wine and 1 tablespoon chopped shallot until the wine is reduced to ¾ cup. Strain through a fine sieve. Have ready 4 dozen canned snails and their shells. Pour 1 scant teaspoon of the reduced wine in the bottom of each shell, replace the snails in their shells, and close these with parsley butter, made by creaming together ½ pound butter, a few drops lemon juice, and ½ cup chopped parsley. Place the prepared snails in a hot oven (400° F.) for about 10 minutes, or until heated through. Serve immediately.

Escargots au Vin Rouge (Snails in Red Wine)

Blend together in an earthenware casserole ¼ pound lean salt pork, finely diced, 18 button onions, 2 cloves garlic, crushed, 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves, a pinch thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Place 4 dozen canned snails over the vegetable mixture and add just enough red wine barely to cover. Cover the casserole, place it in a slow oven (300° F.) for 2 hours, then stir into the mixture a little beurre manié, made by kneading together 2 tablespoons butter and 2 teaspoons flour. Continue to cook for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons cognac and serve hot.

Escargots à la Mode de l’Abbaye (Snails Abbey)

Melt 3 tablespoons butter, add 1 small onion, finely chopped, and sauté until tender but not brown. Add 4 dozen canned snails and blend with 1 tablespoon flour. Gradually stir in 1 cup scalded cream and simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Beat 4 egg yolks until light, blend with 1 cup cream and add to the snail mixture, over a very low fire, stirring constantly until thickened, being careful not to let the mixture boil and the egg yolks curdle. Taste for seasoning and serve hot in patty shells (see “The Last Touch”).

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