The dingy old Buffet de la Gare in Dijon used to be one of the very finest railway station restaurants in France. Many a French gourmet would adjust his schedule so that he could stop over and dine at this unprepossessing spot, where the surroundings were banal but the food was exquisite. The eminently satisfying recipe cited below comes from the chef of the Buffet de la Gare. Will American station restaurants please copy?
Poulet Sauté aux Ducs de Bourgogne
Cut a large broiler or small roasting chicken in pieces as for frying. Brown well in 8 tablespoons butter in a skillet, seasoning with salt and pepper. Turn the chicken frequently to brown beautifully on all sides. Continue sautéing on top of the stove until tender. Or transfer the chicken to a casserole, cover, and place in a slow oven (325° F.) and continue cooking until the chicken is tender. Return the juices from the casserole to the original pan used for browning if it was cooked in the oven. Otherwise, remove the chicken pieces to a hot platter. Add a small amount of chicken broth to the pan and ¼ cup port and stir to blend in the good brown bits. Add 1 cup heavy cream which has been mixed with the yolks of 2 eggs and continue stirring until slightly thickened, being careful that the mixture does not come to the boil. Pour ¼ cup each brandy and kirsch over the chicken and blaze. When the flame is almost burned out, pour the sauce over the chicken and serve at once.
Boeuf bourguignonne is one of the most cited of Burgundian classic recipes. Here is an elaboration on the same theme which should prove a delight to robust appetites.
Boeuf Vigneronne
Cut 2 pounds beef for stewing into 1 ½-inch cubes and marinate in a bowl for 24 hours with red wine to cover, 1 teaspoon thyme, 1 bay leaf, 2 sprigs parsley, 1 onion, sliced, and 1 small carrot, sliced.
When ready to cook the beef, remove it from the marinade, dry with a cloth, and brown on all sides in an iron pot in 2 tablespoons butter or other fat. Add 2 shallots, finely chopped, and 1 clove garlic, chopped. Add 2 tablespoons flour and allow to brown. Strain the marinade and add to the beef with enough bouillon so the meat is more than half covered. In another pan try out 1/3 pound diced bacon until lightly fried. Add the bacon to the meat in the pot. In the bacon fat, brown 6 or 8 small whole onions. Add these to the pot, cover, and simmer over a low fire for about 2 ½ hours, or until the meat is tender.
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You are more likely to find the genuine escargots de Bourgogne in cans, with their shells, than in your fish market, so these recipes prescribe use of the canned product. If you can get fresh snails, follow the procedure for cooking outlined in GOURMET, January 1949, page 54. These recipes are from the files of the GOURMET Chef.
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