Chaos at El Bulli

Not one to rest on his laurels, chef Ferran Adrià makes a sea change.
el bulli kitchen

While El Bulli was busy maintaining its top ranking as the S. Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurant for the fourth straight year, chef Ferran Adrià was quietly changing its season of operation. Since 1987, the gastronomic temple on the Costa Brava has been open from April to October. In other words, summer in Spanish terms. Effective next month, El Bulli will serve lunch and dinner from June 16 to December 19. The decision, according to Adrià, had less to do with an enduring wish to work with fall and winter products like, say, turnips, and more to do with challenging himself and the status quo. “More than ingredients, it’s attitude,” he said the other day in New York, where he was introducing Inedit, the new beer he’s created with his El Bulli team. “I’m doing it just to create a little chaos.”

Subscribe to Gourmet