It usually happens sometime between the bread basket and the appetizers: My father turns to me with hope in his eyes and asks, “So, are you going to write about this place?” If we’re in Chicago, where I write about almost every meal I eat, the answer is usually yes. But most of the time my father and I are eating in Cincinnati—where he lives and I grew up—and there it’s a much different story.
When I go home, I’m interested in eating four things: pizza, chili, ice cream, and (warning: sentimental pandering for son-of-the-year award approaching) anything my mother cooks. My parents have tried to convince me that there are many restaurants in the city that are worth exploring, but I find myself respectfully disagreeing.
Then, a few weeks ago, they took me to Lavomatic. When they told me about it, I had my doubts. For one thing, it was in Over-the-Rhine, a neighborhood rough enough that I found myself sinking low into my seat as we drove through the streets (to the bewilderment of my senior-citizen parents). But when we walked into the restaurant I found a scene that was surprisingly similar to one you’d find in Chicago or New York. The narrow room had a pleasantly dim, yellow glow to it, and was bustling with people talking over the music, eating small plates of French food, and drinking from a gem of a wine list.
As we ate, I kept waiting for my father to ask me whether I’d be writing about the place. But after tearing through crackery tartes flambés, plump, deceptively simple breasts of Amish chicken, rich bites of rabbit confit, almond pound cake with lime curd, and a few bottles of Scheurebe, he had yet to make his move. Maybe I had worn him out? Or maybe he just assumed that Lavomatic was so good he didn’t need to ask? Turns out I was wrong on both counts. As we walked out, I raved about the meal, but my parents were dismissive. “It was better last time,” they muttered.
That’s when I knew for certain Cincinnati was getting a great restaurant scene. I’d know that kind of complaining anywhere.
Lavomatic 1211 Vine St., Cincinnati, OH (513-621-1999; jeanrobertgroup.com)
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