1940s Recipes + Menus

Lamb Hearts en Casserole à la d’Arenberg

The Way We Cooked: Vintage Gourmet

January 1943

For 6 servings, take 6 lambs’ hearts, and wash in a large quantity of warm water. Drain well, then cut away a few of the veins and arteries inside. Cover with sour milk, add 2 bay leaves, 10 to 12 sprigs parsley, 2 mashed cloves garlic, 2 mashed whole cloves, 3 sprigs basil, and 2 sprigs tarragon, dried or fresh; and let all soak for 1 hour. Meanwhile, chop together 1 extra large onion, 2 large fresh mushrooms, 4 shallots, 1 washed and parboiled lamb’s brain, 2 slices bacon, and 3 chicken livers. Put this mixture through the food chopper, using the finest blade, and alternating the mixture with 3 slices bread soaked in Sherry and squeezed very gently. Drain and sponge the hearts, split them in two lengthwise, and divide the stuffing to fill each cavity, though not too full. Wrap each 2 halves, fitted together, in a piece of fell (the outside surface of a leg of lamb, resembling a thin papery substance) bought from your butcher when purchasing the hearts. Or if you prefer, wrap the hearts in thin sheets of fat larding pork, securing them with kitchen thread or skewers or picks. Place the hearts in an earthenware casserole or a baking dish with a tight-fitting lid, along with 1/2 cup each of white wine and bouillon, 1 bouquet garni, 2 or 3 slices onion, and a tiny pinch mint.

Cover well, slide the casserole into a very moderate oven (325° F.) and cook for 2 hours, basting 2 or 3 times. Serve in the casserole after having removed the bouquet garni and the threads or picks.

This exclusive recipe is pulled directly from Gourmet’s archive. It has not been re-tested by our food editors since it was published in the magazine, but it’s a pretty good indication of the kinds of things we once cooked—and ate—with great pleasure.

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