Being There
Fortunately, Florence’s shops are designed for browsing. At Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria, you can order engraved stationery with typefaces once favored by Lord Byron. The Giannini family has been binding books and making paper since 1856 at Giulio Giannini e Figlio (Piazza de’ Pitti 36-37r). Handbags in crocodile, ostrich, python, and lizard are the signature at Bianchi e Nardi (Via Parione 16r). Argentiere Pagliai (Borgo S. Iacopo 41r), silversmiths for three generations, will accept commissions and faithfully reproduce a missing knife or fork from an heirloom silver service no longer in production. The courtyard of Richard Ginori’s flagship store (Via de’ Rondinelli 17r), where you can arrange special commissions for monogrammed services, is covered in stunning Ginori majolica. And you’ll find personalized linens of the highest quality at Pratesi (Lungarno Corsini 32-34r) or Loretta Caponi (Piazza degli Antinori 4r).
A visit to the Palazzo Medici Riccardi (Via Cavour 3) is a must around Christmastime for Benozzo Gozzoli’s luminous fresco, Procession of the Magi. (Lorenzo the Magnificent is the fellow with the Prince Valiant bob.) Countess Simonetta Brandolini d’Adda, an American who has lived in Florence for 30 years and knows everyone, founded Friends of Florence, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the city’s artistic heritage. They are currently researching the best way to clean Michelangelo’s David in time for his 500th birthday next year. Programs for patrons include invitations to view collections not open to the public, as well as luncheons and dinners hosted by Florentine aristocrats in their palazzi. (011-39-055-223064; www.friendsofflorence.org) —Mimi Murphy
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