Eating There
The Lazy Wave Food Co. , currently the best upscale restaurant in Tamarindo, is open for dinner only. South of Tamarindo at Playa Avellanas, Lola’s on the Beach (658-8097) has first-rate smoothies and pizzas (they grow their own basil and tomatoes) in a hip, Euro-minimalist oceanfront spot dedicated to torpid tropical loitering. Reef (658-8289) , on the beach near San José Pinilla, is genuine Tico minimalist—a corrugated roof with a few bare lightbulbs and an open-sided kitchen. But it has the freshest seafood for miles around, beautifully cooked to order. At Mono Congo Lodge (658-8261) , just around the corner on the coast road, the glacial service is compensated for by dishes such as grilled marlin with mango pineapple salsa, fresh-dug carrots, and haricots verts. La Puesta del Sol (658-8442) , in Playa Junquillal, is that extreme rarity, a top-flight Italian restaurant in the tropics. Owners Alessandro and Silvana are from Rome, and their homemade ravioli al tartufo are as good as any in the Eternal City.
Being There
It’s all about nature. Kayak up estuaries or down the coast, explore the rain forest canopy, go deep-sea fishing, ride horseback along mountain trails or in the surf at sunset, watch giant leatherback turtles lay their eggs, swim under steaming hot waterfalls near Arenal volcano, stalk rare birds or iridescent butterflies, surf awesome waves, or just walk along near-deserted beaches for miles under the tropical sun or in moonlight as bright as day. Almost every hotel can arrange tours and activities or steer you to an organization that can. The best idea, though, is to buy a guidebook, rent a car, and hit the road.
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