People who know a lot about wine seem to go from geeky to gushy when they talk about rosé. Why the vine-covered wall of arcane knowledge that keeps mere mortals feeling so intimidated comes down when rosé comes up, I don't know. Maybe it's just that rosé is so much fun—free your mind, and your glass will follow. The Provençal rosé that Gerald Asher highlights in this month's Wine Notes is a classic, and enough of it is produced to allow for relatively wide distribution. But there are excellent rosés being made all over the world, and while their availability can be as unpredictable as the weather, the pleasure they give is a sure thing.
Of course, we're not referring here to the sticky-sweet stuff that has so damaged the reputation of all things pink (and sullied the name of Zinfandel). A few of the “dry” rosés we tasted were slightly sweet, but the ones we liked best all had refreshing acidity to balance the fruit flavors. We ended up sampling more than 50 different rosés, made from a wide variety of grapes including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane, Cinsault, Grenache, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, and, yes, Zinfandel. Fine rosé is being made in Australia, British Columbia, California, France, Greece, Italy, Long Island, Oregon, Portugal, Spain, South Africa, Washington—anywhere good red wine is found. There are more choices every year, but they do tend to come and go. A rosado from Navarra, Spain, appears one year and is eagerly anticipated the next, but for some reason it never shows up again.
Rosé is like a summer fling: It’s of the moment and beautiful to look at, it asks for no commitments, and if its charms wear off as the days begin to shorten, well, there will be no hard feelings if you go your separate ways.
Very complex nose, with violets, grapefruit, and herbs. Grapefruit, pineapple, mango, raspberry flavors, with a citrus finish.
Château de Peyrassol Cuvée Marie-Estelle 2002, France $16
Sweet smelling—apples and vanilla. Hints of strawberries and lemon lime. Very smooth.
Tablas Creek Vineyard Rosé 2002, California $27
A big wine that takes a little time to open up. Jammy sweet, then spicy, with good acidity in the end.
Mas Cal Demoura Coteaux du Languedoc 2002, France $14
Roses, violets, and grass on the nose. Quite dry and peppery, with a good sweet-tart balance and a crisp finish.
Viña Orvalaiz 2002, Spain $8
Pineapples and strawberry jam. Not too big, not too tart, just a pleasant, well-balanced wine.
Territorial Rosé of Pinot Noir 2001, Oregon $13
Smells like Pinot Noir, tastes like a chilled Pinot Noir. It’s even slightly tannic. Finishes crisp and a bit minty.
Ninet de Pena 2002, France $9
Spicy aromas. Strawberry and raspberry, but not overly sweet. Elegant.
Andrew Rich Tabula Rasa Rosé 2001, Oregon $12
Tropical fruit aromas—mango and guava. Citrus flavors, very full-bodied, with a very long finish.
Les Clos de Paulilles 2002, France $15
Extremely dark color. Butterscotch and caramel nose, but a strong berry flavor. Soft.
Marcari Rosé d’une Nuit 2002, Long Island $10
Smells like peaches and cream. Tarter on the palate than expected. Fresh and very dry.
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