This is what I call a gravy-and-potato café," declares Harvey Peterson, whose wife, Gloria, is known for the raisin sauce she makes for ham. Mr. Peterson, who has farmed the land for more than 50 years, is a regular who, amazingly, drinks no coffee. One summer morning, at a table with his wife and some other cooks and his grandson, he spoke of the days long, long ago, when Havana had four flourishing grocery stores, two department stores, and a 20-piece band for promenade concerts in the warmer months. He recalled how empty the town seemed when the Havana Café closed. "Now look at what we have," he said with a measure of pride, gesturing to a dining room crowded with Havanans.
"The Farmers' Inn holds our community together," Mr. Peterson concluded.
"It's like going to church on Sunday," one of the cooks added. "Except you don't have to be Lutheran to have your coffee here."
"Maybe we did save this café," another added thoughtfully. "But the way I see it, this café saved us."
Jane and Michael Stern's first column for GOURMET ran in the January 1994 issue.
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