1950s Archive

Primer for Gourmets

First Lessons in Pudding Cookery

continued (page 3 of 3)

Gelatin combines with custard when the mixture is used for Bavarians and various other molded desserts. Serve these puddings with whipped cream, pureed fruit, macaroons, ladyfingers. or similar garnishes and accompaniments. This cream base is called crème à l'anglaise collée.

Crème à l'Anglaise Collée (English Cream with Gelatin)

Scald 1 cup milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean, and let it stand for 10 minutes to absorb the vanilla flavor. Beat 3 egg yolks light, gradually add 1/2 cup sugar, and beat until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Pour the scalded milk into the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Cook the mixture over low direct heat or in the top of a double boiler over simmering water, stirring constantly, until it coats the back of the spoon. If cooked over direct heat, remove the cream from the heat the moment it reaches the boiling point, Remove the vanilla bean, pour the cream into a chilled bowl, and add 1/2 tablespoon gelatin dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water. Stir the cream briskly, cool it, and chill it.

Bavarois à la Vanille (Vanilla Bavarian Cream)

Whip 1 cup heavy cream until it is stiff, and fold it into crème à l'anglaise collée when the crème just begins to thicken and hold its shape. Pour the Bavarian into a lightly buttered mold and chill it for 3 hours, or until it is set.

Bavarois au Cbocolat (Cbocolate Bavarian Cream)

Prepare crème à l'aglaise collée, adding 1/4 pound grated sweet chocolate to the hot milk and stirring it until the chocolate is thoroughly combined. Follow directions for vanilla Bavarian cream.

Bavaroish à l'Orange (Orange Bavarian Cream)

Boil 1/4 cup each of sugar and water for 4 minutes, stirring constantly, add 2 tablespoons grated orange rind, and cook until the liquid is reduced to 2 1/2 tablespoons. Stir in 2 tablespoons orange juice and l teaspoon lemon juice and add the mixture to crème à l'anglaise collée. When the crème just starts to thicken and hold its shape, fold in 3/4 cup heavy cream, whipped until stiff. Pour the Bavarian into a lightly buttered mold and chill it for 3 hours, or until it is set. Unmold the orange Bavarian on a serving dish and garnish it with orange sections.

Crème au Viu (Wine Cream)

Bring to a boil 1 cup each of sugar and white wine, and the juice and grated rind of l lemon and 1 orange, and add l tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1/2 cup of the same wine. Cook the mixture for 1 minute longer. stirring constantly. Beat 6 egg yolks, stir into them a little of the hot mixture, and add them to the pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture just reaches the boiling point. Strain the cream into a chilled bowl, cool it, and chill it. At serving time, fold in 2 egg whites, stiffly beaten.

Flamri de Semoule (Farina Pudding)

Scald 1 quart milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean, and let it stand for 10 minutes to absorb the vanilla flavor. Remove the vanilla bean and stir in gradually 3/4 cup farina. Stir the mixture briskly with a wire whip and cook it for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add 1/2 cup sugar and 1 envelope of gelatin dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water, and stir all together well. Fold in 4 egg whites, beaten stiff with 1/4 cup sugar, and pour the flamri into a lightly buttered mold. Cool the flamri and chill it for 5 hours, or until it is set.

Pounding au Riz au Caramel (Caramel like Pudding)

Parboil 1/2 cup rice in water to cover for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain it and put it in a deep baking dish. Scald 2 cups milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean and, when it reaches the boiling point, remove the vanilla bean and pour the milk over the rice. Cover the dish and bake the rice in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 1/2 hour. Do not stir the rice.

Cream 2 tablespoons butter with 1/2 cup sugar, add 2 egg yolks, and beat the mixture until it is smooth and creamy. Add the rice, tossing all together with a fork. Clean the baking dish and coat it with caramel (page 28), Fill the dish with the rice mixture, set it in a pan of hot water, and bake it in a moderately slow oven (325° F.) for 40 minutes, adding cold water to the pan as needed to keep it from boiling. Cool the pudding and chill it. At serving time, invert the mold on a serving dish and pour a little caramel around it.

Turban à l'Agen (Rice Pudding with Prunes)

Wash 1/2 cup rice in cold water, drain it, and bring it to a boil in water to cover. Turn off the heat and let the rice stand for 5 minutes. Drain it in a sieve and let cold water run through to rinse it. Bring to a boil 1 1/2 cups scalded milk, the rice, 1/4 cup sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean, and add 1/2 tablespoon butter. Remove the vanilla bean. Cover the pan and cook the rice over very low direct heat for 1/2 hour, or in the top of a double boiler over simmering water for 45 minutes. Add 1/2 tablespoon gelatin dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water, tossing the rice with a fork. Add 2 egg yolks, beaten, and spread the rice on a platter to cool.

Fold in 1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped stiff, turn the rice into a lightly buttered ring mold, cool the rice, and chill it for 3 hours, or until it is firm. At serving time, unmold the rice onto a serving dish and fill the center with the following prune compote: Combine 1 1/4 cups prunes, soaked in water for 3 hours and drained, with 1 cup each of red wine and water, and 1 slice of lemon, and cook until the prunes are soft and the liquid is reduced to 1 cup. Remove the pits from the prunes, if desired, and add 3 tablespoons apricot jam. Cool the compote and chill it.

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