1950s Archive

Primer for Gourmets

FIRST LESSONS IN COLD EGG COOKERY

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Oeufs Mollets

Put as many eggs as desired in boiling water, reduce the heat, and simmer them for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the eggs from the pan, plunge them immediately into cold water, and shell them. The whites will be firm but delicate, and the yolks will be soft, very much like poached eggs. Oeufs mollets may be used in any recipe calling for poached eggs.

Oeufs Pocbés Froids (Cold Poached Eggs)

Put enough water in a shallow pan to almost fill it, add 2 tablespoons vinegar, and bring the water to a boil. Break each egg onto a plate, sprinkle a little salt on the yolk, and slide it gently into the water. When all the eggs are in the water, reduce the heat and simmer them for 4 to 4 ½ minutes, carefully spooning the hot water over the cops of the eggs from time to time. Remove the poached eggs with a slotted spoon, and place them immediately in a pan of cold water, to prevent further cooking and to cool them. At serving time, drain the eggs thoroughly and trim them. Cold poached eggs are usually covered with aspic, and served with or without garnishes of spring vegetables, or slices of tongue, ham, or tomato.

Oeufs Pocbés en Gelée (Poacbed Eggs in Aspic)

Coat 6 small molds with clear aspic and chill the aspic until it is set. Decorate the center of each mold with a lily-of-the-valley, made by cutting hard-cooked egg white into flower shapes with a truffle cutter, or a sharp knife, and arranging blanched tarragon leaves for the leaves and stem. Decorate the sides of the molds with slices of truffle and hard-cooked egg whites, ham and ox tongue, both cut in julienne, and blanched tarragon leaves. Place a cold poached egg in each mold, cover it with aspic, and chill for 45 minutes, or until the aspic is set Fill the molds almost to the top with cooked peas, and green beans, carrots, and white turnips. all diced. Cover the vegetables with a layer of aspic and chill it for 45 minutes, or until the aspic is set.

Serve the eggs on individual plates and garnish each plate with chopped aspic and parsley.

Cold Egg Américaine

For each serving, coat a small mold with aspic and chill the aspic until it is set. On the aspic place a cold poached egg or an oeuf mollet, and garnish the sides of the mold with chervil, blanched tarragon leaves, and tomato slices. Fill the mold with aspic and chill it for 45 minutes, or until it is set.

Or pour a layer of aspic on a serving platter and chill it. On the aspic arrange cold poached eggs or oeufs mollets. and separate them with chervil, blanched tarragon leaves, and tomato slices. Cover all with aspic and chill for 45 minutes, or until the aspic is set.

Cold Eggs Printanière

For each serving, coat a small mold with aspic and chill the aspic until it is set. Combine equal parts of green beans, carrots, and turnips, all cooked and cut in 1-inch strips or small dice, and cooked green peas, and add just enough mayonnaise to hind the vegetables. Place a layer of the vegetable mixture in each mold, arrange a cold-poached egg or oeuf mullet on top, and fill the mold with aspic. Chill the aspic for 45 minutes, or until it is set.

Or pour a layer of aspic on a platter and chill it. On the aspic arrange 6 cold poached eggs or oeufs mollets, and top them with the vegetable-mayonnaise mixture. Cover the platter with the aspic and chill it for 45 minutes, or until it is set.

Cold Egg Strasbourgeoise

Place cold poached eggs or oeufs mollets on slices of pâté de foie gras, Coat the eggs with sauce cbaud-froid and chill it for 30 minutes, or until the sauce sets. Decorate the tops of the eggs with slices of truffle, cut in fancy shapes, and cover the whole with aspic. Chill the aspic for 45 minutes, or until it is set.

Sauce Chaud-Froid

Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir in 4 tablespoons flour, and add gradually, while stirring, 2 cups hot chicken broth. Salt to taste and continue to stir until the sauce is smooth and thickened. Cook gently over a low flame for about 30 minutes. Strain the sauce, add 2 envelopes of gelatin softened in 1/3 cup cold water and 1 cup heavy cream, and stir until the gelatin is thoroughly dissolved, Cool the chaud-froid to lukewarm.

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