1950s Archive

Primer for Gourmets

FIRST LESSONS IN COLD EGG COOKERY

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In writing about hard-cooked eggs, I must add a word about the famous French classic mixture, mimosa. It is used to garnish all kinds of cold dishes, both salads and hors-d'oeuvre. Mimosa is merely a combination of finely chopped egg while, the sieved yolk, and finely chopped parsley

I'd say that stuffed eggs are the most popular choice for an egg salad, an hors-d'oeuvre, or a salad garnish. Some people call them deviled eggs, By either name, they are hard-cooked eggs, with the yolks mashed or sieved and combined with other ingredients. To be sure the yolk is in the center of the egg, turn over the eggs in the box a few hours before cooking them so that they rest on the other ends. The filling should be piquant, rather sharp, and must be very smooth. You pile it high in the hollow from which you remove the yolk and give it a decorative touch by running it through a pastry bag with a star tube or swirling the top with a fork, much as you would cake icing.

Finally, we have cold eggs molded in aspic Although you may hard-cook or stuff eggs to coat with aspic, cold poached eggs or oeufs mollets are more traditional. Eggs cooked this way, with the soft yolk surrounded by firm egg white and the whole encased in firm gelatin, are a gustatory delight. Oeufs mollets are gently boiled, immediately placid in cold water to check further cooking, then shelled and used in the same fashion as poached eggs.

Cold eggs in aspic may be prepared in individual molds by pouring in a layer of aspic, letting it set, then arranging the egg and its garnish, and filling the mold with more aspic. When set, they may be unmolded on individual plates or a serving platter and edged with water cress or salad greens. Or they may be arranged with the garnish on a layer of firm aspic and covered with more aspic.

Oeufs à la Diable Froids (Cold Deviled Eggs)

Cut in half lengthwise 6 cooled hard-cooked eggs, sieve the yolks. and combine the yolks thoroughly with 4 tablespoons mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon prepared mustard, and ½ teaspoon salt. Fill the egg whites with the yolk mixture. piling it high, and arrange them on a serving platter. Coat the tops with mayonnaise or tartare mayonnaise (July, 1958) and sprinkle them with paprika. Garnish the platter with water cress.

Egg Salad

Blend thoroughly 1 cup mayonnaise. ¼ cup cream, and 1 teaspoon each of Worcestershire sauce and salt. Arrange 12 cooled hard-cooked eggs on 6 individual serving plates lined with lettuce. Pour the sauce over them, and sprinkle them with paprika.

World's Fair Eggs

Cut in half lengthwise 6 cooled hard-cooked egg, sieve the yolks, and add to the yolks an equal amount of mashed avocado. 2 tablespoons mayonnaise, and salt and pepper to taste. Blend the ingredients thoroughly and fill the whites with the yolk mixture. Arrange the eggs on a serving platter and garnish the platter with cooked ham and smoked ox tongue, both thinly sliced. Sprinkle the eggs villi a mixture of tarragon. chervil, and chives, all chopped. Coat all with aspic and chill the egg platter for 45 minutes, or until the aspic sets.

Aspic

In a saucepan combine 3 cups chicken stock, 1 cup tomato juice, 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar. 2 tablespoons dry white wine, 4 envelopes of gelatin, Salt and pepper to taste, and the crushed shells and stiffly beaten whites of 2 eggs. Heat the mixture slowly, stirring constantly. until it boils. Remove from the heat, let it stand for 10 minutes, and strain it trough a sieve lined with a flannel cloth, dipped in cold water and wrung dry.

Deviled Egg Salad

Line 6 small molds with aspic and chill the aspic until it is set. Fill the molds with cut green beans, carrots and white turnips, both diced, and peas, all cooked and moistened with vinaigrette sauce (October, 1957). Fill the molds with aspic and chill them for 45 minutes, or until they are set. Moisten 1 small head of lettuce, shredded, with vinaigrette sauce, reserving 6 small inner leaves, and lay the lettuce on a platter. Decorate the edge of a platter with a ring of water cress, and arrange 6 deviled eggs on the lettuce. Turn out the molds on the water cress, and arrange a small lettuce leaf filled with mayonnaise between each mold.

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