Fowl —heavier and older birds not tender enough to cook quickly in any of the ways we have already described—surrender readily to long simmering in water or wine. They are naturally more flavorful than younger birds, and consequently make richer broth. There are probably few simple dishes better loved than a boiled fowl, served with the vegetables with which it cooked and with buttered rice (November, 1957). And many gourmets prefer stewed or boiled chicken to the crustier preparations, and enjoy even tender young chickens cooked by this method. Probably the most famous of this genre is the coq au vin.
Coq au Vin
Cut a 4-pound spring chicken into 8 pieces: 2 legs, 2 second joints, 2 wings, and 2 breast pieces. Dry the chicken and season with salt and white pepper.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a flameproof casserole and in it brown lightly ½ cup diced bacon, or parboiled and drained fat salt pork. Skim off and reserve the dice, and in the hot fat brown the chicken pieces on both sides. To the casserole add 12 each of small mushrooms and small onions, adjust the cover, and continue to cook over low heat until the onions soften and begin to brown. Pour off about half the fat, add 2 finely chopped shallots or half an onion and I clove of garlic, crushed, and sprinkle the vegetables with 2 tablespoons flour. Cook, stirring, until the flour begins to brown, add 2 cups red wine and enough water to cover the chicken, and a bouquet garni made by tying together 2 stalks of celery, 2 sprigs of parsley, half a bay leaf, and a sprig of thyme. Bring the liquid to a boil, add the reserved pork or bacon dice, cover the casserole, and simmer the chicken on top of the stove for about 40 minutes, until the flesh is very tender. Skim off any fat that rises to the surface of the sauce, discard the bouquet garni, and correct the seasoning with salt. Arrange the chicken, vegetables, and sauce in a deep serving dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Poulet Poché (Poached Chicken)
Make a vegetable court-bouillon by cooking for 1 hour 2 quarts water, 2 each of carrots, onions, and leeks, 2 teaspoons salt and a bouquet garni made by tying together 2 stalks of celery. 4 sprigs of parsley, half a bay leaf, and a sprig of thyme. If any chicken bones are available, they may be added.
Truss a plump frying chicken and simmer it in the broth for about I hour, until it is tender and cooked through. Serve the chicken with buttered rice (November, 1957) and with sauce supréme (January, 1958) made with some of the broth.
Poulet à l'Ancienne
Cut up a plump chicken as for coq au vin and season the pieces with salt and pepper. Cook the chicken for 8 minutes in 3 tablespoons butter, turning the pieces often to prevent them from taking on color. Add 1 shallot or half a small onion, chopped, and 2 tablespoons flour, and cook, stirring, for a minute or two. Add 2 cups chicken stock or hot water, bring the liquid to a boil, stirring constantly, and cook for a few minutes longer. Add 12 small white onions and a bouquet garni made by tying together 2 stalks of celery, 3 sprigs of parsley, half a bay leaf, and a sprig of rhyme. Cover the pan and cook the chicken for about 30 minutes, until it is tender. Discard the bouquet garni, Add to the pan 12 small mushrooms, cooked for 5 minutes in ½ cup water acidulated with a few drops of lemon juice. Heat the sauce well, and just before serving, add 1 egg yolk mixed with ¼ cup warmed light cream. Shake the pan to blend the sauce and correct the seasoning with salt, white pepper, and a little more lemon juice. Serve with rice or boiled potatoes.
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