1950s Archive

Primer for Gourmets

First Lessons in Chicken Cookery

continued (page 4 of 5)

There are several ways of trussing a bird. I use a chef's needle, a kitchen needle about six or seven inches long, which I thread with white string. I hold the legs and second joints close to the body, cramping them in at the joint, and insert the needle into the left joint and through the body, bringing it out at the right joint. Then I insert it again at the right leg and bring it through the body and out at the left leg, and tie the ends of the string. I hold the wings close to the body in much the same way, and sew through the left wing tip and body and out to the right wing tip, back through the right wing and out at the left, and tic this pair of string ends. As an alternate method, you may insert one long skewer through the joints and the body and another through the wings, and body. Catch the string around the ends of the skewers and cross and tie the string over the back of the bird—not over the breast, because the strings will leave

Poulet Rosi (Roast Cbicken)

Truss a young roasting chicken. Spread the bird with 2 tablespoons butter. Sprinkle it with salt and lay it on its side in the roasting pan. Add ¼ cup water to the pan and roast the bird in a moderately hot oven (375° F.) for about 10 to 15 minutes, basting it frequently with the pan drippings. Turn the chicken on its other side and cook it for 10 to 15 minutes, basting frequently. If the water cooks away, add a little more. Turn the chicken on its back and roast it until it is done, about 1 to 1 ½ hours in all. Remove the bird to a serving platter. Add a few spoonfuls of chicken stock or water to the roasting pan and cook, stirring in all the brown crustiness that clings to the pan. Correct the seasoning with salt and a little white pepper and swirl in, off the heat, 1 tablespoon butter. Serve the pan gravy separately.

Chestnut Stuffing for Poultry

Cook ½ pound chestnuts in salted water with a piece of celery (page 38).

pound each of fresh lean pork and fat pork through the finest blade of the meat grinder. Add ½ teaspoon salt, a pinch of poultry seasoning, the drained chestnuts, broken in large pieces, and 1 cup fresh bread crumbs. Toss the mixture lightly and moisten it with ¼ cup Sherry. This makes enough stuffing for a 4- to 5- pound roasting chicken.

Chicken en Cocotte

Truss a tender roasting chicken weighing about 4 pounds. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large cocotte or flameproof casserole and in it brown lightly ½ cup diced bacon, or diced salt pork parboiled for a few minutes and well drained, Skim off the dice and reserve them. Season the chicken with salt and lay it on its side in the hot fat in the casserole. Cook over moderate heat for about 10 minutes to brown the skin. Brown the breast and the other side in the same way. Add to the cocotte 2/3 cup carrots, cut in large dice, and 6 small onions, Sprinkle the vegetables with ½ teaspoon sugar and cook them for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they begin to take on color. Add the reserved bacon or pork dice and ½ cup water, and cook for 20 minutes longer. If necessary add a little more water. Add 1 cup fresh green peas, turn the chicken on its back, cover the cocotte tightly, and continue to cook for 20 minutes longer, until the peas are tender. In the meantime, peel and dice 3 potatoes and cook the dice slowly in 3 tablespoons melted butter until they arc tender and brown. Remove the Chicken to a serving platter and carve it. Correct the seasoning of the vegetables and serve with the chicken. Pass the potatoes separately.

Chicken en Cocotte with Sherry

Follow the directions for chicken en cocotte, substituting ½ pound mushrooms, cleaned and cut in quarters, for the peas. Remove the chicken to a heated serving platter and surround it with the vegetables. In a small saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon butter, add ½ teaspoon flour, and cook the roux, stirring, until it is golden. Add ½ cup hot chicken stock and 1 tablespoon tomato paste, mix well, and cook, stirring, for 4 minutes. Add this sauce to the liquid in the cocotte, correct the seasoning with salt, and finish with 3 tablespoons dry Sherry. Serve the sauce separately.

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