1950s Archive

Primer for Gourmets

FIRST LESSONS IN SAUTEED MEATS AND PAN SAUCES

continued (page 3 of 4)

Oignons Sautés (Sautéed Onions)

Heat enough clarified butter in a skillet to cover the bottom generously. Add peeled, sliced onions and cook them over moderate heat until they are richly golden and soft, stirring and turning them frequently to insure even cooking.

Champignons Sautés (Sautéed Mushrooms)

Remove the stems from 1 pound mushrooms and reserve them for another use. Wash the caps and peel them if the skins are tough. Season the mushrooms with salt and a little pepper. Heat 4 tablespoons clarified butter in a saucepan and sauté the mushrooms in it until they are golden brown. Serve them on toast or as an accompaniment to any sautéed meat. Pour over them the butter from the pan and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Tomates Sautées (Sautées Tomatoes)

Cut firm tomatoes in thick slices, season the slices with salt, and roll them in flour. Heat oil or clarified butter in a heavy skillet and brown the tomato slices on both sides.

Sautéed bananas and apples make different and delicious garnishes for meat.

Bananes Sautées (Sautéed Bananas)

Heel bananas and halve them lengthwise; if the bananas are very large cut them in quarters. Heat enough clarified butter in a heavy skillet to cover the bottom well and cook the pieces of banana until they arc golden brown on both sides. Serve either as a garnish or in place of a vegetable.

Pommes Sautées (Sautéed Apples)

Select firm apples; Rome Beauty and Spitzenburg sauté well. Peel and cut them in small pieces, in balls, or in olive shapes, and roll the pieces in flour. Heat enough clarified butter in a skillet to cover the bottom of the pan well and cook the pieces of apple until they are golden brown and just tender, turning them often. Serve with pork.

Heat the fat very hot for sautéing to sear and seal the surface of the food immediately. Then finish the cooking quickly, over brisk heat. Beef, lamb, or liver, or any meat that is to be cooked only to the rare stage will be done by the time both sides are browned, providing that it is not much more than a half inch thick. But for meats like pork and veal, which should be well done, brown the meat, turn down the heat, and took it slowly until it is well done. To test sautéed meat for donencss, prick it with a sharp-tined kitchen fork, if the juice that comes out is clear, with no tinge of pink, the meat is well done; if the juice has a pink tinge, the meat is still rather rare. A good cook watches the food as it cooks and learns to recognize the various stages of browning and cooking and knows when to increase or decrease the heat.

Three rules should be remembered. Only very tender foods are suitable fur sautéing. Fish, the loin and rib chops of lamb, pork, or veal, liver, hamburger patties, beef filets, onions, mushrooms, and the like can be cooked by this quick method. Thick slices of meat cannot be successfully sautéed. Very thin slices, or escalopes, of veal or minute steaks can be cooked this way with far better results than can two-inch steaks, for instance. Finally, the pan should not be covered, because the steam thus held in will braise the food and destroy the crisp surface.

Some people like sautéed foods just as they come from the pan, without an accompaniment, some prefer only the browned butter, and some insist on having a sauce. The first way, of course, is the simplest. It is nearly as simple to discard the fat the food was cooked in and to brown some butter in the pan, about ½ to 1 tablespoon for each serving. If desired, a few drops of lemon juice and some finely chopped parsley can be sprinkled on the food, too. To make a simple pan sauce, discard the cooking fat, add either stock or wine, about 2 tablespoons for each serving, deglaze the pan—that is, stir in all the brown crustiness clinging to it—and cook the liquid until it reduces by half. Add salt to taste and if desired a little pepper. Finally, swirl in 1 or 2 tablespoons butter for each ¾ cup sauce by moving the pan in a circular motion. As soon as the butter melts, remove the pan from the heat and pour the sauce over the meat. When butter is swirled in this way it thickens the sauce.

A more elaborate pan sauce is made Prick the meat with a fork; if the juice shows no tinge of pink, the chops are done. Remove the chops to a serving dish, discard the excess fat, and add about ½ cup stock or red wine to the pan. Cook slowly, stirring in all the brown bits. Skim off the fat that rises to the surface. Cook the sauce until it is reduced by about one half, correct the seasoning, and pour it over the chops.

Côtelettes de Pore Cbarcutière (Sautéed Pork Chops Cbareutière)

Sauté pork chops and remove them to a serving dish. Pour off all fat from the pan except 1 tablespoon and add 1 tablespoon clarified butter. In this mixed fat, cook 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion until it is soft and golden. Add 1/3 cup white wine and 1 tablespoon vinegar and cook the wine until it is reduced to three fourths the original quantity. Add 1 cup tomato purée and I tablespoon beef extract and continue cooking the sauce slowly for 10 to 15 minutes. Correct the seasoning with salt and add 1 teaspoon prepared mustard, A or 5 slices sour pickle, and ½ tablespoon chopped parsley. Swirl in 1 tablespoon butter, moving the pan with a circular motion, and as soon as the butter melts, return the chops to the pan and heat the sauce until it reaches the boiling point, but do not let it boil. Arrange the chops on a serving dish and pour the sauce over them.

Keywords
louis diat,
france,
meat,
pork
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