1950s Archive

Classes in Classic Cuisine

Pâte à Biscuit and Pâte à Génoise

continued (page 4 of 4)

Biscuit Routt (Sponge Roll Cake)

Willi a hand whip or electric beater beat 4 egg yolks and 1/3 cup sugar in a warm bowl until the mixture is very light and “ribbons” as it runs off the beater or spoon. Sprinkle 1/3 cup sifted flour on the egg mixture, cutting and folding it in a little at a time with a metal Spatula. Beat 3 egg whites until they arc stiff but not dry and cut and fold them in with the spatula. Fold in 2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled. Line a large flat jelly-roll pan with wax paper. Butter the paper well and spread the batter evenly on it, about 1/3 inch thick. Bake the cake in a hot oven (400° F.) for 7 to 9 minutes, until it tests done. Turn the cake out to cool on a board dusted with a little confectioners' sugar. Remove the paper. Spread the cake with jelly, pastry cream (March, 1956) or whipped cream, and roll it up. Or cut it into 3 equal strips and arrange the strips in layers, with jelly, whipped cream or pastry cream as a filling.

Gateau à l'Orange (Orange Spongecake)

Beat ½ cup very fine sugar, 1 teaspoon finely grated orange rind and 4 egg yolks in a warm bowl until the mixture is very light and runs off a spoon in ribbons. Add 1 or 2 drops red vegetable coloring. Fold in ½ cup sifted cake flour a little at a time with a metal spatula. Fold in 3 stiffly beaten egg whites. Butter and flour a pan about 2 or 2 ½ inches deep. Bake the gateau in a very moderate oven (325° F.) for 40 minutes, or until the cake tests done.

Turn the cake out on a cake rack to cool. Ice the cake with fondant (March, 1956) lightly timed with yellow coloring and flavored with orange extract, and decorate it with candied orange peel cut in small dice.

Pain de Gênes (Almond Cake)

Make ½ pound almonds into powder. Combine the almond powder with 6 tablespoons fine sugar and 2 eggs, and beat the mixture well with a hand whip or an electric beater. Add 6 tablespoons sugar and another egg, and continue to beat until the mixture is very light and fluffy. Put 6 tablespoons butter, cut in small pieces, into a warm bowl and work it with a wooden spoon until it is very creamy, but not oily. With a metal spatula cut and fold the softened butter into the first mixture. Fold in ½ cup cake flour sifted with ¼ teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon kirsch.

Pour the batter into a shallow 8or 9inch pan that has been lined with heavy wax paper and well buttered. Bake the cake in a slow oven (300 ° F.) for 35 to 40 minutes. Turn the cake out on a rack to cool. Remove the paper and serve the cake plain or with a dusting of confectioners' sugar.

Gateau Manqué

Make ½ pound almonds into almond powder. Beat 4 egg yolks and ½ cup sugar with a hand whip or an electric beater until the mixture is very light and fluffy and almost white. Sift ½ cup cake flour with ¼ teaspoon salt and add it to the mixture in 3 parts, folding it in lightly with a metal spatula. Beat 4 egg whites stiff and fold them into the batter with the spatula. Fold in 4 tablespoons butter, melted over low heat and cooled, and ½ cup almond powder. Pour the batter into a 9-inch pan that has been lined with heavy wax paper and well buttered. Bake in a very moderate oven (325° F.) for about 35 minutes. Turn the cake out on a rack to cool and remove the paper.

Mix together 1 egg white, ½ cup confectioners* sugar and 3 tablespoons almond powder. The mixture should be just soft enough to spread easily. If necessary, add more sugar. Spread the icing over the cake and sprinkle it with a little confectioners' sugar. Return the cake to a very slow oven (225°F.) until the icing forms a light crust.

I would like to share with you one of my favorite English recipes for a cake that resembles the poundcake more than it docs the usual English fruitcake. I give it its typically English name.

Plum Cake

Cut 1 cup butter into small pieces, put in a warm bowl and work it with a wooden spoon until it is soft and creamy. Gradually beat in 1 cup sugar. Add 5 eggs, one at a time, beating well after each. Fold in little by little 1 ¾ cups sifted cake flour sifted with ½ teaspoon baking powder. Dredge lightly with flour ½ cup each California and sultana raisins and ¼ cup candied cherries and fold the fruit lightly into the batter. Fold in the grated rind of 1 lemon and 2 tablespoons rum. Line 2 loaf pans with white paper, butter the paper well and fill the pans 2/3 full. Bake in a slow oven (300 ° F.) for about 1 ¼ hours, or until the cakes are golden brown, have shrunk from the sides of the pan and test done.

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