1950s Archive

Classes in Classic Cuisine

Pâte à Biscuit and Pâte à Génoise

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Pâte a Génoise (Light Butter Cake)

In a bowl combine 4 eggs, ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract. Set the bowl in a second bowl filled with fairly hot water and beat the mixture until it is lukewarm, very light and fluffy, and lias doubled in bulk. This will take about 20 minutes with a hand whip or 5 minutes with an electric beater. Remove the bowl from the hot water and continue to beat the mixture until it is cool. Measure 1 cup less 2 tablespoons sifted cake flour and cut and fold it into the mixture in 3 portions with a metal spatula. Fold in 7 tablespoons butter melted over low heat and cooled.

Pour the batter into a buttered and floured pan to a depth of ¾ inch to 2 inches, depending upon how the cake is to be used. Bake the cake in a moderate oven (325° to 350° F.) for 25 to 35 minutes, until it tests done. Turn the cake out on a wire rack to cool. This recipe makes One 10-inch Square cake or two 8-inch layers or an 8or 9-inch round high cake. If you wish to cut the cake into small fancy shapes and ice them to make petits in fours, bake the cake in a 10by 12-inch sheet.

Here are some of the basic preparations that are used in making gateaux and that are referred to in the recipes that follow.

Almond Powder

Blanch almonds as follows: Soak shelled almonds in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes, until the skins loosen. Drain the nuts, plunge them into cold water and rub off the skins. Chop the nuts. Spread them on a shallow pan and dry them thoroughly in a very slow oven (250° F.). Cool the nuts and put them through a food chopper, using the finest blade. The almonds may take on a little color during the drying, but they should not be allowed to darken.

Crème an Beurre (Buttter Cream)

Cream 6 tablespoons cold butter quickly with ½ tablespoon sugar. The butter should not become warm. Blend the butter thoroughly and very slowly with ½ cup cold crème pâissière (March, 1956), added a bit at a time.

Crème an Beurre Moka {Mocha Butter Cream)

Add to crème au beurre 1 tablespoon triple-strength coffee.

Glace Royale

To 1 egg while add enough confectioners' sugar to make a thick, smooth paste, stirring constantly.

Gateau aux Matrons {Chestnut Cake)

Make and cool a gonioise or biscuit an beurre and split it into 2 layers. Spread the bottom layer with crème an beurre mixed with finely chopped matrons ghee's. Adjust the top layer and spread the top and sides thinly with apricot jam or puree. Decorate the cake with assorted candied fruits and matrons glacés. Cover the fruit and marronts with transparent icing. The fruits will show through.

Transparent Icing

Make a thick syrup by boiling 1 cup sugar in ½ cup water (without stirring) until the syrup spins a thread or the candy thermometer registers 220° F. Pour the syrup very slowly in a thin stream into a bowl, working it constantly with a wooden spoon until it becomes white and thick. Add I teaspoon rum and continue to work the cream until it is lukewarm. Pour the icing over the decorated cake.

Génoise Glacée

Make a génoise and slice it horizontally into 2 layers. Fill the cake with jam or currant jelly or with pastry cream (March, 1956) or crème an beurre. Brush the top and sides thinly with heavy apricot puree and cover the apricot puree with white fondant (March, 1956) flavored with kirsch or another liqueur. Decorate the cake with glazed fruits or toasted almonds.

Ambassadenr

Make and cool a génoise or biscuit an beurre.' Slice off the top of the cake and scoop out the inside, leaving a shell about ¾ inch thick on the sides and ½ inch thick on the bottom. Prepare a macédoine of mixed, diced fresh fruits, including some strawberries, sweeten it with a little powdered sugar and flavor it with 1 or 2 tablespoons kirsch. Fill the hollowed-out cake with this mixture and replace the top. Brush the cake with apricot jam and sprinkle it with chopped toasted almonds.

Gâteau Moka

Make a génoise or a biscuit an beurre and slice it horizontally into 2 or 3 layers. Spread crème an beurre moka between the layers and cover the cake with crème au beusse To decorate the top, squeeze some of the cream through a pastry bag with a fancy tube. Cover the sides of the cake with chopped toasted almonds. Chill the cake until the crème an beurre is firm before cutting it.

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