Simple Brown Sauce
In a saucepan brown very lightly 1 finely chopped onion in 2 tablespoons fat. Add 2 tablespoons flour and cook, stirring, until the roux is brown. Add 2 cups stock and 3 tablespoons tomato purée and cook, stirring, until (he sauce thickens. Continue to cook the sauce until it is reduced to about 1 cup. Season to taste.
Rognons de Veau Grillés (Broiled Veal Kidneys)
Trim all but a thin layer of fat from 4 veal kidneys, split them, season with salt and pepper and put them on skewers to keep them flat. Brush the kidneys with melted butter and in a preheated broiler broil them about 5 inches from the heat for about 8 minutes on each side. Serve the kidneys with broiled bacon or ham and broiled mushrooms or tomatoes, and with maitre d'hôtel butler (May, 1955) or brown deviled sauce (April, 1955).
Rognons d' Agneau Grillés (Broiled Lamb Kidneys)
Trim all the fat from A lamb kidneys and prepare them for broiling as you would veal kidneys. Lamb kidneys should be cooked at high heat and for a shorter time than veal kidneys—5 minutes on each side, 3 inches from the flame, should be enough. Serve like veal kidneys.
Ragoût de Rognons d' Agneau (Lamb Kidney Stew)
Trim the fat from 8 to 10 lamb kidneys. remove the skin, and cut the kidneys into quarters. Season them with salt and pepper. In a shallow pan heat 3 tablespoons fat and add the kidneys. Cook them over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Pur the kidneys in a colander to drain. Discard the fat from the pan and without washing the pan add to it 2 tablespoons butter, 10 or 12 small mushrooms and 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot. Cook these for a few minutes, until the shallot is soft. Add 1 ½ tablespoons flour and continue to cook the roux until it takes on a little color. Add ½ cup cooked tomatoes and ½ cup simple brown sauce (page 19) and bring the sauce to a boil, stirring it constantly until it thickens. Cook the sauce slowly for about 10 minutes, stirring it occasionally. Correct the seasoning and add ¼ cup sherry or Madeira. Add the kidneys and heat them thoroughly, but do not allow the sauce to boil. Serve the stew sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Rognons de Veau Soutés Badoise (Sautéed Veal Kidneys)
Remove the membrane and trim the surplus fat from A veal kidneys, cut the kidneys in thin slices and season them with salt and pepper. Melt enough of the kidney fat to cover the bottom of a shallow pan. Cook the sliced kidneys in the hot fat over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the kidneys from the fire and drain them in a colander. Discard the fat from the pan. but do not wash the pan. To the pan add 2 tablespoons butter and ½ pound sliced mushrooms, and cook the mushrooms until they are tender. Add 1 tablespoon chopped shallot and cook for 2 minutes longer. Add 3/8 cup dry white wine and 1 cup brown sauce (April, 1955). Bring the mixture to a boil and add 1 teaspoon each of chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, and ½ teaspoon chopped chives. Add 1 tablespoon butter and with a circular motion of the pan swirl the butter until it melts. Return the kidneys to the sauce and reheat them, but do not let the sauce boil.
For many years liver was infrequently or never seen upon the dinner table in the majority of American homes, but since the discovery of its extraordinarily high nutritional value it has become increasingly popular. Today liver is regularly found on both home and restaurant menus. Calf's liver is usually sautéed or broiled. It should nor be overcooked. The exact cooking time, however, depends on whether you like it rare, medium, or well done. Long topof-the-stove cooking will toughen liver just as it toughens kidneys. In France, the whole liver is often braised in red wine, a very practical and simple way to prepare liver for a large family. If there is any left over, it can be used for sandwiches or served cold with a salad. Chicken livers are usually broiled with mushrooms on skewers or sautéed in butter, or cooked in cither of these ways and served with Madeira sauce in the center of a ring of cooked rice. Pork liver is less expensive than calf's liver and not as strong in flavor as beef liver. It makes an excellent pâté.
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