There are a great number of different specialty meats and the recipes for preparing them are so numerous that it would be impossible to include them all in this one article. I have, therefore, arbitrarily chosen to deal with liver, kidneys, and brains here, and promise to discuss others at a later date.
Calf's brains and beef brains are considered great delicacies in both France and America, At the old New York Ritz, we were always prepared to serve at least thirty to forty portions of calf's brains each day, and as the years went by, the demand increased.
Brains, like sweetbreads, require a precooking or blanching. However, brains must be kept covered with the cooking liquor until final preparations are begun. One brain is ample for two or three portions.
Precooking of Calf's or Beef Brains
Wash the brains in cold water. Remove the membrane which covers them, and any blood. Soak the brains in cold water for several hours, changing the water frequently. Put them in a saucepan, cover them with cold water and add 2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, 5 peppercorns, ½ onion, sliced, 1 small carrot, sliced, and a fagot made of 4 sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme and 1 bay leaf. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pan and simmer the brains for 25 to 30 minutes. Let the brains cool in the cooking liquor.
Cervelles Sautées (Sautéed Brains)
Clean and precook 2 or 3 brains and cut each one into 6 slices. Dip the slices in flour and sauté them in butter until they are nut-brown on both sides. Arrange the brains on a heated serving dish to keep hot. In a saucepan cook 4 tablespoon butter until it is brown. Pour the browned butter over the brains. sprinkle them with chopped parsley and garnish with lemon slices.
Cervelles an Beurre Noir (Brains with Black Butter)
Clean and precook 2 or 3 brains and cut each one into 6 slices. Arrange the slices on a hot serving dish, season them with salt and pepper and sprinkle with chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon vinegar and about 12 capers. In a small pan cook 3 tablespoons butter until it is almost black. Pour the black butter over the brains and serve them very hot.
Cervelles Vinaigrette (Brains with Vinaigrette Sauce)
Clean and precook 2 or 3 brains and cut each one into 6 slices. Arrange the slices on a serving dish and pour over them sauce vinaigrette (May, 1955) to which a chopped hard-cooked egg has been added. Sprinkle the brain slices with finely chopped chives, tarragon and chervil. Serve either hot or cold.
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