Not even chefs will agree on which kind of fish is the finest, or on which method of preparation is best. And one gourmet will consider the simple delicacy of filet de sole véronique a culinary triumph, while another will insist upon the superiority of truite saumonée à l'amiral, with its elegant sauce and garniture of shrimp, quenelles and puff-paste croutons. Hut there are two things upon which all fish fanciers agree: that fish must he very fresh, and that, as the old proverb has it, “C'est la sauce qui fait le poisson.” It is surely the sauce which makes—or spoils — the fish. Always consider together the fish and the sauce which you will serve with it—whether a simple sauce meunière or a rich sauce vin blanc.
Although there are scores of varieties of fish, and hundreds of recipes for fish dishes, there are actually only seven basic cooking methods: boiling, broiling, poaching, sautéing, deep-frying, baking, and braising. One of the secrets of successful fish cookery is to know which methods are best for the particular fish you wish to prepare.
BOILING
Fish are boiled in court-bouillon, which is water flavored and seasoned to make a fish stock, and are always deeply immersed in this stock. The liquid in which fish are poached, by contrast, is barely deep enough to come to the top of the fish, and is usually a combination of water with wine or tomato juice and seasonings. This poaching liquid is then used as the base for the sauce.
Whole fish or large sections of fish like salmon, halibut or cod, are boiled. A long, narrow kettle designed for fish boiling has a perforated rack on which the fish rests. The fish are wrapped in cheesecloth, which makes them easier to handle, or, if they are to be served whole on the cold buffet, they may be strapped, before cooking, with bands of muslin to a board. When the fish is removed from the board and placed on the serving platter it will be perfectly straight and flat. If you do not have a fish kettle, cut the fish in half and lay the pieces side by side in a large, shallow saucepan.
A court-bouillon consisting simply of salted water with milk and lemon juice added to it keeps fish like cod white during the cooking. Other court-bouillons can be as savory or as delicate asyou like. Sometimes they are made simply of fish stock, sometimes partly of fish stock and partly of white wine, sometimes of vegetable stock with vinegar, and sometimes of very highly seasoned vegetable stock.
Court-Bouillon au Blanc(Fish Stock with Milk)
Combine 2 quarts water, 1/2 cup milk, 1 tablespoon salt, and 3 slices of lemon.
Fish Court-Bouillon
Combine 2 quarts water, the bones and trimmings of the sole, salmon or cod, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 sprig each parsley and chervil, 1 stalk celery, 1 bay leaf, 4 peppercorns and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer slowly for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Strain the court-bouillon before using.
Vegetable Court-Bouillon
Combine 2 quarts water, 1/2 cup vinegar, 1 large onion, sliced, 1 carrot, 2 sprigs parsley, 2 stalks celery, 2 bay leaves, ½ teaspoon thyme, 8 peppercorns, and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, simmer slowly for 45 minutes to 1 hour, and strain.
Boiled Whole Fish
Wrap a 5- to 6-pound fish in cheesecloth. Lay the fish on a rack in a fish kettle and add strained vegetable court bouillon to cover. Bring the court-bouillon to a boil and simmer the fish for 40 to 50 minutes, or about 10 to 12 minutes per pound. The fish is done when the flesh can be lifted cleanly from the bones. The fish may be allowed to cool in the cooking liquid. In this case, the cooking time should be shortened accordingly. To serve, carefully remove the cheesecloth and lay the fish on a napkin on a warm platter. The napkin will absorb any excess liquid. Carefully lift off the top skin and cut away the layer of dark flesh. Serve hot with hollandaise sauce (June, 1955) or any fish sauce, or chill and serve with mayonnaise. This method applies to halibut, salmon or striped bass.
Boiled Haddock or Codfish Steak
Have the fish cut into thick slices or steaks, and arrange the steaks side by side in a shallow saucepan. Add court-bouillon an blanc to cover, bring the court-bouillon to a boil, and simmer the fish for 10 to 15 minutes. With a broad spatula remove the steaks to a serving dish. Serve with hollandaise sauce (June, 1955) or any fish sauce.
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