1950s Archive

A Gastronomic Tour of Italy


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High above the old port and dug into the olive-clad slope is the HOTEL SPLENDIDO. It is no news to well-traveled Americans that this lofty shrine of good living has a standard of cuisine, service and comfort in keeping with its view of the Tigullian Gulf, which is breathtaking.


So many glittering paragraphs have been written about Rapallo and its horseshoe bay that we hesitate to say more. It's a hotelman's heaven, patronized the year round by well-upholstered foreigners. It is the darling of the movie stars-even Garbo smiled at a photographer here-and probably the most relaxed place on the Riviera. Ob drivers doze in their open-air landaus. Italian honeymooners hold hands, and deaf ladies on cafe terraces read Agatha Christie's latest. The people who really seem to be enjoying Rapallo are the children riding in pony cans. Rapallo has wonderful hotels and plenty of inexpensive pensions and restaurants. Its best known shrine of gastronomy. DA FAUSTO, was closed when we came through in the off-season, so we can't tell you how divine it is. But the cinema colony can.


Just as the coastal highway turns inland to do some mountain climbing, there is one more charming spot along the shore. Sestri Levants has a pleasant harbor, a beach, and more space to move around in than most places. It has an epicurean specialty of its own. too. Oiled ciuppin, it is an Italian version of bouillabaisse. We tried it at the RISTORANTE MIRA and came away starry-eyed, hopeful that Tuscany, our next goal, could offer a piscatorial melange as fragrant.

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