1950s Archive

Tricks of my Trade

continued (page 3 of 4)

Sauce Mornay

Beat 3 egg yolks lightly with ¼ cup cream and stir the mixture into 2 cups hot béchamel sauce. Cook, stirring. until the sauce almost reaches a boil, but do not let it boil. Add 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan or Swiss cheese.

Pommes de Terre Duchesse (Duchess Potatoes)

Peel 2 pounds of potatoes, cut them into even pieces, and cook in boiling salted water to cover until they arc soft but not mushy. Drain and dry by shaking the pan over the fire until the moisture has evaporated. Rub the potatoes through sieve or put them through a ricer. Add 2 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper to taste, a little nutmeg, and 2 whole eggs slightly beaten with 2 egg yolks and beat the mixture with a spoon until it is fluffy.

Coquilles de Volatile Rossini

Put a border of duchess potatoes (see above) around the baking shells and brown in a hot oven (450° F.). Mix together small thin slices of cooked chicken, slices of truffle, and enough hot thick Madeira sauce to hold the mixture together. Fill the shells with this mixture, top with a slice of goose liver, sautéd in butter, and a slice of truffle and serve immediately.

Madeira Sauce

Reduce 2 cups brown sauce (see January 1953) to 1 cup. Add 1/3 cup Madeira. Bring the sauce to a boil but do not let it actually boil or the fine flavor of the wine will be lost.

Brainsor Sweetbreads en Coquilles

Cut cooked brains or sweetbreads into small, thin pieces. Prepare enough cream sauce (see January 1953) to hold the mixture together, and thicken the Sauce with 1 or 2 egg yolks. Mix all together, fill the baking shells, and brown in a hot oven (450° F.) or under the broiler flame. Serve immediately.

Fish on Coquilles

Cut cooked fish in small pieces. Prepare enough Moroay sauce (see page 36) to hold the mixture together plus an extra ½ cup. Put a narrow border of duchess potatoes around the baking shells and fill the centers with the fish mixture. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons whipped cream to the remaining sauce and spread it over the filling. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, brown in a hot oven (450° F.) or under the broiler flame, and serve immediately.

Sweetbreads Florentine en Coquilles

Dice cooked sweetbreads and heat them in cream sauce (see January 1953). Heat about ½cup cooked, drained spinach in a little butter, Put a narrow border of duchess potatoes around the baking shells and brown in a hot oven (450° F.)or under the broiler flame. Arrange spinach in the center of each shell and cover with the hot creamed sweetbreads. Sprinkle with finely chopped cooked ox tongue or cooked ham and serve immediately.

Oysters and Shrimp en Coquilles

Poach oysters in their own juice for a few minutes, allowing 2 or 3 for each serving. Drain and trim off the beards.Make enough Mornay sauce (see page 36) to mix with the oysters plus an extra ½ cup. Put a narrow border of duchess potatoes around the baking shells. Arrange oysters and sauce with 1 or 2 shrimp in the center. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons whipped cream to the remaining sauce and spread it over the filling. Sprinkle with grated cheese, brown in a hot oven (450° F.) or under the broiler flame, and serve immediately.

Tiny open tarts filled with savory mixtures, browned in the oven, and served hot are called tartelettes or barquettes. The round ones are tastelettes and the oval ones, barquettes. Roll out flaky pie dough very thinly and cut it into the right size and shape for the special little molds, either fluted or . plain. Fit the cutouts into the molds and press the dough firmly against the bottom and sides. Prick the dough, cover with wax paper, and fill the molds with rice or dried beans so the dough won't rise out of shape during baking. Bake in a moderately hot oven (375°- 400° P.) for 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the rice or beans (they can be used over and over again) and the wax paper. Unmold and fill the pastry shells as desired.

Tartelettes Homard de Maine

Mix together finely diced cooked lobster with thick hot sauce américaine and fill the pastry shells. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs sautéed in butter until golden brown amd heat thoroughly in a hot oven (400° F.).

Sauce Américaine

Cook 4 cups stewed tomatoes until most of the liquid has cooked away and Strain through a line sieve.

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