The only exception to this rule is game. Leftover roast venison, marinated in wine sauce for several days, will make an excellent civet, or game stew. So will the legs, second joints, and carcasses of feathered game of which only the breasts were served the first time. At the old Ritz-Carlton there were many fall parties at which breasts of guinea hen or pheasant were served in royal splendor, but only the breasts, so that we had the carcasses of 500 to 600 roast birds to use in salmis of game. And these salmis were on our menu almost daily, since game birds are always expensive, and those 500 birds represented a substantial investment in food. Furthermore, those salmis were one of our most popular entrées. The moral should be obvious—the best restaurants don't waste food, and the best homes shouldn't either.
One of the best leftover recipes I can give you, because it has a dual use, as a soup and as a base for sauces, is a soup made from chicken leftovers. The soup can be clarified with egg white, if you like, and if it is not strong enough to jell by itself, a little gelatin may be added to it to make an aspic.
When you buy chickens, always ask for the feet, or buy extra feet. They are full of gelatin. Have the butcher chop off the toenails. Then wash the feet well, cover them with boiling witter for a few minutes, and peel the skin from the top down, pulling it off as you would a glove, inside out.
Chicken Soup from Leftovers
In a soup kettle melt 1 tablespoon butter, add 2 or 3 onions, chopped, and cook until they are lightly brown. Add 2 quarts water, ½ cup of chopped celery tops, 1 cup of chopped leeks, 1 or 2 tomatoes, and 2 carrots, both chopped. and 1 clove of garlic. Clean, scald, and remove the skin from 6 or more chicken feet and add the feet to the kettle with the bones skin, neck, and other chicken leftovers. Add 2 teaspoons salt, a few peppercorns, and some parsley. Bring to a boil, skim, and cook slowly for about 2 hours. Strain. To serve as soup, reheat the stock with rice or vermicelli. To clarify the stock, cool and remove the fat from the surface. Add 2 egg whites, lightly beaten, mix well, and bring slowly to the boil, stirring constantly. Turn down the heat, keep the broth just below the simmering point for about 25 minutes, then strain through a sieve lined with a double thickness of cheesecloth. If the broth only partially jells, stir into the hot stock 1 tablespoon gelatin softened in ¼ Clip cold water.
Tourte de Vean (Veal Pie)
Chop very findy enough leftover cooked veal to make about 2 cups. Soak ½ cup fresh bread crumbs in milk to cover for a few minutes, drain well, and combine them with the veal. Add 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion cooked until golden in 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, ½ teaspoon salt, a little pepper, 1 egg, beaten, and 4 tablespoons veal gravy or other good meat gravy and mix thoroughly. The consistency should be about that of hash. A few finely sliced cooked mushrooms may be added.
Line a deep pie plate or shallow casserole with pie dough, put in the veal tilling, and cover with a thin layer of dough. Brush the top with a little milk. prick the dough with a two-tined fork, and bake in a moderately hot oven (375° F.) for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the crust is well browned.
Veal Salad Louis
Cut into small julienne enough leftover cooked veal to make 2 cups and enough cooked ham to make 1 cup and combine the meat with 1 cup chopped celery and ½ cup julienne-sliced cooked beets, Add 1 cup shredded lettuce and ½ cup French dressing (see October, 1952) mixed with 2 chopped hard-cooked eggs, 1 teaspoon chopped chives, and 1 teaspoon mixed chopped parsley and tarragon. Toss the salad well and garnish it with slices of fresh tomatoes and a bouquet of water cress.
Matelote of Veal
Cut 1 to 1 ½ pounds of leftover boiled or braised veal or blanquette de veau into large dice. In a saucepan melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 3 tablespoons chopped onions, and cook until the onions begin to turn golden. Add 1 clove of garlic, crushed, and 1 tablespoon flour and mix well. Add 1 cup red wine and 1 cup stock, bring to a boil, stirring constantly, and add ½ teaspoon salt. half a small bay leaf, crushed to powder, and a little crushed thyme. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.
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