Pontchartrain (Seine-et-Oise)
Perhaps we have overlooked something, but it appears from fairly close inspection that Versailles offers scant encouragement to the discriminating diner. Of course, there is one superb hotel, the TRIANON PALACE, which for the moment shelters our most eminent envoy, Ike himself. But for the observer who wishes to combine a visit to the matchless Palais de Versailles with an equally matchless luncheon the pickings seem slim. That would be a lamentable situation, indeed, but luckily it can be avoided if you are willing to make a western detour to L'AUBERGADE, in the town of Pontchartrain, about ten miles beyond Versailles. Ten miles is a lot, unless one is richly rewarded for the effort, but many a French gourmet would walk, not ride, those extra ten miles just to bask in this temple of wonderful cooking. Located on the western outskirts of the (own, L'Aubergade (the “g” is hard) is the type of inn you read about in novels—gay, rustic,bedecked with flowers, filled with interesting people. Its rose garden and tree-shaded terrace are a joy to behold, and its large provincial salle à manger has room for everybody in dubious weather. But, naturally, the masterful cuisine of the patron-chef,Monsieur Ogier, is the Auberrgade's ultimate badge of distinction. Here is an ex-Parisian who confines himself to the cuisine de grande classe alone. His dishes are remarkable, with a strong touch of his own individuality. As an hors-d'oeuvre, you might try his petiss oignons à la grecque,a sizable platoon of small cooked onions reposing in a rich sauce spotted with peppercorns and Corinth raisins and pointed up with curry. Then there is a bewildering choice-—quenelles, sole, lobster, crayfish, sweetbreads, chicken, steak, all sublimated in the chef's skillful and sophisticated manner. Monsieur Ogier is also an expert in that classic transformation of the potato—gratin daupbinois.With complete confidence that American visitors will be enchanted by its atmosphere, its food, service, and fair prices, we recommend L'Aubergade with enthusiasm. Pontchartrain lies along the road to Chartres, and L'Aubergade is an ideal stop if you are motoring to or from the cathedral city. Closed on Wednesday.
La Roche-Guyon (Seine-et-Oise)
This charming and unpretentious village on the banks of the Seine is a favorite with Parisians seeking the country air and a quiet place to do their Sunday fishing. Perched on the chalk cliffs, which loom above the village, is a frowning dungeon almost a thousand years old. It is the last remains of a château-fort which once sheltered Francis the First and his court. There is another reminder of stirring days in La Roche Guyon—a simple stone tablet marking the spot where a solitary American soldier fell when the town was liberated in 1944. On the trip from Paris you pass through Mantes, where a noble cathedral stands among the nibble of the recent war. It is well worth a visit, even if its windows are now boarded up. For the epicurean apex of the fifty-mile trip to La Roche-Guyon, you will find, facing the village square, a hospitable auberge called AU VIEUX DONJOHN. This is a place with a sympathetic, family like atmosphere and cooking which is down right delicious. Monsieur and Madame Lanty are friendly and solicitous and they have their own special way of preparing sole and young chicken. Their pâté maison is illustrious. Prices arc very fair, and the wine cellar holds some treasures. If you share the Lantys' weakness for animals, you can also make the acquaintance of two French poodles, a trio of cats, and a canary. There are a few comfortable rooms for an overnight stop,
Carrières-Sous-Bois (Seine-et-Oise)
Visitors to Saint-Germain-en-Laye are confronted with a rainbow of dining places, from the proud PAVILION where sauce béarnaise was invented to modest little open-air places on the place du Château. We think that you will be happiest in this neighborhood if you try the AUBERGE DE LA TERRASSE, in the wooded village of Carrières-sous-Bois, about two miles north of Saint-Germain. Here on the edge of the forest is a picturesque old building, once a dependency of the château, which was transformed into an inn as far back as 1782. It is framed in verdure, free of mosquitos, famed for its regional wines and dishes from the Touraine and the Franche-Comté. Its shaded terrace is a seraphic spot to enjoy a quiet and superlative country luncheon, only fifteen miles from Paris. Monsieur Sannequin's poulet gratiné à la franc-comtoise leaves me bereft of superlatives.
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