Pierrefonds (Oise)
Back in the dim centuries Pierrefonds was a watering place, and it still has the atmosphere of a little country spa. The village is completely dominated by its huge château, originally built in 1395 and restored in the nineteenth century by Viollet-le-Due, with Napoleon III footing the bill. It is a less sympathetic restoration than some undertaken by the great archaeologist, perhaps, but its fantastic magnitude—eight rounded towers and an immense court of honor-is no less impressive. The village of Pierre-fonds sleeps at the base of its château, as quiet a country town as you could hope to find. For anyone seeking a week's complete tranquility after a strenuous trip, for example, I can think of no more satisfying spot than the HOTEL DE RUINES. This is a simple, clean, comfortable country inn, whose charm is due largely to one massive tree which covers a whole courtyard and shelters dozens of diners. The proprietor of the Hotel des Ruines is cordial and considerate, the food is very good, the wine cellar is well stocked, and the prices arc most reasonable. There is hardly anything to do but walk in the little town, but if you bring your own books along, there is boundless quiet and shade in which to enjoy them. For a passing luncheon on the way to Compiegne the Hotel des Ruines and its all-sheltering tree offer every enticement.
Beauvais (Oise)
World War II descended upon the old cathedral town of Beauvais with tragic intensity. It was an early casualty, and one of the worst. The center of the town was wiped away, but the mere mass of the cathedral was enough to save it. Today, the cathedral, whose apse is the loftiest in Christendom, is in fair condition, but the rest of Beauvais is rising very slowly from its ruins. Most of the business establishments are housed in temporary wooden buildings. This is the case with the best dining place in Beauvais, tha RESTAURANT CHÂTEAUDRIANT. This was a leading temple of good food before the war, and Monsieur Defrance's deft cuisine has not suffered one bit, even if his colorful old restaurant has been reduced to rubble. In his present headquarters at 32, rue Gambetta. you will find an excellent luncheon, probably the best in the northern part of the Oise, coupled with good service and fair prices.
Soissons (Aisne)
The département of the Aisne offers few epicurean highlights, but there is one good oasis in case you make a trip to this cathedral town and its neighbor, Noyon. Both of the cathedrals in these towns have been restored in recent years, following serious damage in both wars. It is heartening to observe what excellent restorations have been made under the direction of the Ministère des Beaux-Arts. The neighboring hilltop cathedral of Laon suffered less and remains one of the most noble in France. This trio of medieval cathedrals is well worth a trip, and Soissons offers both a good overnight stop and a restaurant with delectable food. This is the HOTEL DU LION ROUGE, a modern, very comfortable hostelry whose solid reputation has not wavered for decades. Its culinary accomplishments are prodigious and are due to the personal direction of Monsieur Rétoré. a top-fight maître queux and an authority on wine. In Soissons, you are far enough from Paris to encounter some purely regional specialties. and Monsieur Rétoré prepares them with a master hand. His coq an Bouzy is a wonderful variation of an old theme, arid his terrine de foie de volaille soissonaise makes an epic bers-d'oeuvre. His prices are considerate. Isn't that nice?
Checklist for French Provinces Available
For those fortunate gourmets who are sailing or flying to France this summer, we have assembled a handy checklist of the restaurants and hotels recommended thus far by Samuel Chamberlain in “An Epicurean Tour of the French Provinces,” which began in GOURMET in March, 1949. We will be happy to send you this checklist at your request.
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