Willi a very sharp knife cut down both sides of the center bone of the saddle of veal, leaving ½ inch of meat uncut at each end. Remove the filets from both sides, leaving intact the meat at the ends, and cut the filets into slices ¼ inch thick. Spread a little purée Soubise on the uncut ends of the saddle and lay on the purée a piece of truffle and foie gras and a slice of the filet. Continue to reconstruct the saddle in this manner, using about 15 to 20 slices each of truffle and foie gras on each side. Spread the reformed saddle with purée Soubise, then with alternate slices of the goose liver and truffles, and finally with another coating of the purée. Cover with Mornay sauce (see April, 1951) and sprinkle with grated Parmesan.
Set the platter on a pan that contains a little warm water and reheat the veal in a moderate oven (350° F) until the sauce is golden-brown. Garnish with small glazed carrots, artichoke bottoms stuffed with tiny peas, hearts of braised celery, small potatoes rissolées, asparagus tips, green beans, or with oilier vegetables in season and serve the dish with the veal gravy.
Caneton en Chemise (Duck witb Rouennaise)
Bone a 5- to 6-pound duck and stuff it with rouennaise (see below) to which I egg has been added. Roll up the duck securely in a napkin, lying both ends with soft string, (In France we lied them in a vessie, made from the bladder of a hog.) Add the duck to a kettle of boiling stock, return the stock to the boil, and simmer for about 1 hour, or until tender.
Remove the duck from the kettle, discarding the napkin, and put it on a heat proof platter with a little of the stock. Brush with butler and brown in a hot oven or under the broiler flame. Arrange the duck over a clean napkin on a serving platter and garnish with slices of orange on top and with slices of lemon around the platter. Present the platter to the guests, slice through the duck and stuffing, and serve the slices with sauce rouennaise (see below).
Rouennaise (Liver Paste)
Heat thoroughly 4 tablespoons salt pork fat. Add 2 cups duck or chicken livers, a little thyme, 1 bay leaf, 1 tea spoon salt, and a little freshly ground pepper. Cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes over a hot fire and stir in 4 tablespoons cognac or sherry. Pound the mixture in a mortar and rub it through a fine sieve.
Sauce Rouennaise (Duck Liver Sauce)
Put 1 cup red wine, 10 peppercorns, 1 bay leaf, ½ teaspoon thyme, and A shallots, chopped, in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until the liquid is reduced to 1/3 its original quantity. Add 4 tablespoons brown sauce and 5 or 6 duck or chicken livers, finely chopped. Bring again to a boil, correct the seasoning, and rub the sauce through a fine sieve. Finish by stirring in 4 tablespoons cognac.
Sole Soufflée Tante Marie (Sole Stuffed with Fish Mousse)
Clean and skin 2 soles each weighing about 2 pounds. Make a pocket in each fish as follows:
Cut off the fins with slurp scissors. Starting from the head, slip a very sharp, thin knife closely along each side of the backbone, cutting down to detach the flesh but leaving uncut the underedge and the part near the tail. Sever the backbone at the head and tail with the scissors and lift the bones out.
Stuff the pocket with fish mousse (see below) and close it so that the sides meet along the back. Wrap each fish in cheesecloth and tie the ends with string. Put 4 tablespoons butter and 2 teaspoons chopped shallots in a shallow saucepan, lay the fish on this bed. and sprinkle with 1 cup white wine. Put the bones on top of the fish to give the sauce a better flavor. Bring the wine to a boil, cover the pan, and simmer on top of the range or in a moderate oven (350° F) for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the stuffing is set and the fish is cooked. Remove the soles to a serving dish, discarding the cloth.
Reduce the liquor in the pan to about 6 tablespoons and add 1 cup cream sauce (see February, 1951). Thicken the sauce with 5 or 6 tablespoons hollandaise or with 2 egg yolks mixed with a little cream and swirl in 2 tablespoons butter, taking the pan from the fire as soon as the butter is melted. Fold in 4 tablespoons whipped cream, pour the same over the fish, and glaze in a very hot oven or under the broiler flame.
Fish Mousse
Put 1 pound of honed sole, cod, or other white fish in a mortar and pound it to a fine paste, adding ½ teaspoon salt, a little pepper, and 2 egg whites. Rub the purée through a fine sieve into a saucepan. Set the saucepan in a bowl containing cracked ice and continue to work the mixture with a wooden spoon, adding gradually about 2 cups heavy cream. The mixture has the right consistency when a rounded spoonful of it can be slipped off the spoon into a pan of hot water and will hold its shape when poached. When the mousse reaches this consistency, add ¼ cup sauce américaine and ½ cup mushroom duxelles (see below).
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