Bagnoles-de-L'orne (Orne)
This town strikes a different note from the others listed. It is an inland spa, surrounded by forests, bubbling with healthful waters, and replete with restful hotels. One hotel in this reposeful resort has established a wide reputation for its fine food. We sought it out and can report a delicious luncheon as our reward. The hotel is called the LUTETIA PALACE, a pleasant, modern establishment, resembling many others in the town. Its food, however, sets it apart. If you cherish a quiet week in the forest, with the companionship of distinguished cooking, you should like the Lutetia Palace.
Forges-les Eaux (Seine-Inférieure)
This little brick-and-stone town is the quintessence of Normandy and a popular stopover point between Paris and the Channel pores. We will always recall with gratitude the night we arrived here at the doorway of the HôTEL DU MOUTON, tired and famished after a breakdown. It was after ten o'clock, but Monsieur Lemercier and his willing staff whipped up a beautiful dinner, including an unforgettable sole dieppoise. At mote normal hours, they can do even better. This is a simple country inn with simplicity's attendant virtues: it is clean, hospitable, and inexpensive.
Rouen (Seine-Inférieure)
Tragedy struck at Rouen during World War II, and acres of its ancient buildings were laid waste. Its Cathédrale, its Eglise St. Maclou, and its rare Gothic Palais de Justice were gravely damaged. but reconstruction crews are already well along with their work. Apart from the devastated area near the river, however, the story is less discouraging. One of the buildings which escaped by a hair was the celebrated HôTEL DE LA COURONNE, the ancient timbered hostelry built in the pure Norman style of the fourteenth century. Located at 31 place du Vieux-Matché, the site of the martyrdom of Jeanne-d'Arc, it has been a credit to the Normandy cuisine for generations, nay centuries. Monsieur Lucien Dorin, whose career with his brother as a master restaurateur is well known, now is aided by his son in guiding the destinies of the Couronne. In these ancient surroundings you can be assured of a superb dinner at a very fair tariff. We began with the best white port I've ever tasted and ended with an inspiring old Calvados. Between these two pleasant extremities everything was irreproachable, including the service.
The HôTEL DE LA POSTE is Rouen's leading hotel, a most comfortable place which verges on what the French call élégance, perhaps because the Duke of Windsor and the Aga Khan stopped there last year. Located at 72 rue Jeanned'Arc, the hotel possesses the restaurant which is rated No. 1 in Rouen by all the critics. This is called the RELAIS FLEURI, and it presents a very impressive menu, indeed. The famous canard à la rouennaise is at its finest here, and you probably won't find a better sole normande than that prepared by the gifted chef, Monsieur Lautier. Rouen could be your most memorable overnight stop in all Normandy.
Totes (Seine-Inférieure)
The hazards of the alphabet place this town last on the list and permit me to end this epicurean tour of Normandy in a blaze of glory. Totes is a crossroads hamlet, midway between Rouen and Dieppe, and there would be no earthly reason to stop there except for the HôTEL DU CYGNE, one of the truly remarkable shrines of good food in France today. This large brick building, halfcovered with vines, has always been an inn known for its fine cooking since it was built in 1611. Its reputation has never been higher than it is today, however, a fact which is attributable to one man. Monsieur Claudius Richard. To be received by Monsieur Richard in his gigantic kitchen is an experience, we promise you. which you will never forget. A very small man. with a vast white toque and a wistful smile, he is a superlative chef whose career has taken him from Paris to Brussels to London to New York and, finally, back to this quiet crossroads where he has supposedly retired. In this lofty kitchen, decorated with a priceless collection of copper, brass, and old platters, the genial little man prepares the dishes which lave taken a lifetime to perfect. Most of them are simple dishes. but they have a master's touch. You simply can't find better quenelles de brocket, better entreóte minute or truite amandine. There are a dozen such classic dishes to choose from, along with impeccable pastry, cheese, fruit, and wine. The prices are exceedingly fair. The most priceless commodity, however, is that first glimpse of the beaming Monsieur Richard n his medieval kitchen. That is worth a trip to Normandy, all by itself. The Hôtel du Cygne is our most enthusias:ic recommendation-by far.
Not much space remains for Normandy recipes. We have worked on a lot of them, however, and when this collection finally appears in book form. a large chapter will be devoted to this rich land of fresh butter and thick cream.
Soupe Normande
Stew gently in several tablespoons of butter a bunch of leeks and 3 small white turnips, all thinly sliced. When they are partly cooked, add 3 potatoes, also thinly sliced, and let them soften a little in the butter, but do not brown. Add 1 ½ quarts good beef stock, as from a pot-au-feu, and ½ cup cooked dried Lima beans or uncooked fresh Lima beans. Season to taste. Add 1 ½ cups milk and cook very gently until the vegetables are tender. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter and 2 tablespoons heavy cream and serve.
Barquettes d'Huitres à la Normande (Oyster Tarts Normandy Style)
Make a dozen little tart shells from flaky pastry, baking them either in small. round tart tins or in the pointed oval tins known as barquettes. Partly fill the cooked pastry shells with a mixture of about two do/en shrimp, cooked and sliced, one dozen large mushrooms, cooked and sliced, ant 2 sliced truffles, all blended into 1 cup béchamel sauce (see August, 1950).
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