Pont-l'Evêque (Calvados)
This little crossroads town, which lends its name to one of the noblest of French cheeses, had a tough time during the last war and shows it. Luckily, both of its attractive inns, the Golden Eagle and the Golden Lion, survived with minor damage. The HOSTELLERIE AIGLE D'OR is a handsome fifteenth-century timbered inn whose courtyard is sketched on our title page. Its ancient dining salon boasts an immense fireplace, glistening with copper, pewter, and old china. The cooking is typically Norman-sweetbreads, chicken, and escalopes de veau in rich cream sauces, sole swimming in butter, wild strawberries basking in thick cream. Madame Castelain is a cheerful, capable cook, and it is a pleasure to be her guest.
The HÒTEL DE LION D'OR is easier to find as one motors through Pont-l'Evêque, for it stands smack on the crossroads. It is also an old timbered house, but boasts the appendage of a glassed-in terrace on the town square. The food is so good that one doesn't mind the noise of passing traffic, Another gifted cuisiniÈre presides here and shows particular skill in preparing shellfish, rabbit, and the classic Norman poulet à la Vallée d'Auge. The prix fixe meal, which looked most tempting, was quoted at 350 francs, or just a dollar, plus wine and service.
Bizy (Eure)
In writing about the RESTAURANT QUERVEL in the village of Bizy, I find it difficult to avoid bias. This is because I have known Monsieur Quervel for more than a quarter of a century and have been a steadfast admirer of his pâlé en croûte, his délices de sole normande, and his poulet rôti all of that time. Monsieur Quervel began his career as a pastry chef. His restaurant, which is located on the edge of the forest on the outskirts of Vernon, began as a pastry shop, where an occasional meal was prepared for old friends. Little by little, it became known to discriminating Parisians, who would come out for the week end and lead a Lucullan life on his simple, box-hedged terrace. Finally the pastry shop had to be abandoned in favor of the invading gourmets. For the past forty years, Monsieur Quervel has been the patron-chef of his own superb country restaurant, and for just as long Madame Quervel has met her guests at the door with a smile. There is not a whit of pretence about the place, but you will find some of the best cooking and finest wines in Normandy. And, needless to say, the pastry is scrumptious. The Quervels promised to show particular courtesy to my friends, so if you will mention Monsieur Shom-bear-laaa, it might pay off. The hamlet of Bizy is within a reasonably short drive of Paris and makes a pleasant Sunday outing.
Conches (Eure)
This pleasant little town, perched on the edge of a ravine. still treasures many of its Norman timbered houses and ancient stone buildings and is well worth a visit. It also boasts a simple country hotel in the fine old tradition. This is the HôTEL DU CYGNE, a clean and hospitable little place, quite suitable for an overnight stop. One glance at the capable Madame Richoux and her lofty, spotless kitchen should be enough to convince you of the high plane of her cooking. You will undoubtedly like her saucisson chaud brioché, not to mention her delectable tournedos béarnaise.
Léry (Eure)
Just across from the church in this sprawling village near Rouen is the recently restored HOTEL BEAUSé JOUR, a newcomer among Normandy inns and a noteworthy one, especially if you like to fish. Near by is a canal which appeared, to my inexpert eyes, to be a fisherman's paradise. Everyone seemed to be hauling in small silvery fish at will, and many a failure seemed in prospect. From a dozen toothsome specialties quoted on the menu of the Hôtel Beauséjour. our inquiring trio chose variously quiche Lorraine, truítes an bleu, gnocchis au gruyÈre. and rognons madÈre and found nothing bur praise for the fare. We finished our dinner with a delicious choice of cheese and tar-black coffee of infinite richness and taste. Last year cheese and coffee were on the dubious list, but not any more! Restrictions on the cream content of French cheese have been lessened, and coffee no longer suffers the companionship of roasted acorns. Monsieur Nauwelaerts has done the passing gourmet a distinct favor in setting up the Hotel Beauséjour. It is easier to praise his cooking than to pronounce his name!
Les Damps (Eure)
As you drive along the river road near Pont-de-l'Arche, you must look closely to find the fork leading down to one of the most charming of all Normandy inns. This is LE VIEUX NORMAND, a genuine thatched, timbered cottage in the half-hidden village of Les Damps. (Only a Frenchman can pronounce that word Damps and not say dans or don!) The rustic dining room is not one you'll soon forget. Its blackened timbers are ornamented with a fascinating miscellany of polished brass and copper, old faience, and flowers. Flowers are everywhere. Near by is a lazy stream where one can row or fish or relax in anticipation of a truly fine dinner. The menu of Le Vieux Normand follows the new tendency to list only a few specialties, but they are noble ones! There was an unexpected stranger from Provence on the menu, the garlic-fragrant bourride. We didn't try it, not being unanimous-which is essentialbut we can recommend with enthusiasm the escalope de veau, covered with a blanket of mushrooms and a thick cream sauce, sprinkled with cheese, and quickly browned in the oven. This enchanted cottage is worth the trouble to find.
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