Its wines are not outstanding or well known, They recall the neighboring Touraine and Anjou vintages, without their subtlety. Nevertheless, they are charming vins du pays, fresh and palatable. Since they do nor travel well, they become a purely local luxury, to be consumed at an early age. The best of the lot is probably St.-Léger de Montbrillais, grown near Loudun and found in many hotels of the region. Most wine lists lean heavily on Muscadet, Bourgeuil, and Vouvray from the adjacent provinces.
If you are just a bit sated with rich sauces, the forthright, unaffected food of this province may prove a blessing. There are several hotels and restaurants where you may judge its virtues. First, in the département of the Vienne, is:
Poitiers
Mention of this ancient city, capital of the Poitou, usually evokes the picture of a fascinating, uncorseted lady by the name of Diane, who achieved the rare distinction of being the mistress first of Henry the Second, king of France, and later of his son and successor. But Poitiers has other distinctions besides Diane. Its Roman ruins are still plentiful, its vibrant university is one of the best, and its churches are a delight to architects and laymen alike. Our photograph of the Church of Notre-Dame-Ia-Grande shows, in addition to its Romanesque splendor, some of the animation which surrounds the area on market day. The citizens clustered at the right are not seeking to buy food but to get a good look at an ingenious exhibitionist. This resourceful fellow makes a living with the cooperation of one small grass snake and a flat drum. He puts the drum on the pavement in front of him and when sufficient francs ate tossed on it by the crowd, he undertakes his trick. Holding luck his head and opening his mouth wide, the man lifts the meek snake by the tail. Whereupon the little fellow crawls obediently down his master's throat until only his tail remains exposed. I'm not sure that this account is gastronomic, but it's true, and the crowd was more than satisfied.
A long pause and a new paragraph seem in order before approaching the subject of food in Poitiers. There are three consoling shrines of Poitou cooking to choose from:
HÔTEL DE FRANCE,28 rue Carnot, near the place d'Armes. This is a thoroughly reliable, clean, and comfortable hotel for your Poitou stopover. The cooking is very good, and the prix fixe menu with wine, which comes to about a dollar and seventy-five cents, is ample and appetizing. Some of the regional specialties should tempt you—especially côte de veau farci à la poitevine, sole au Bourgeuil, and the chef's own way of preparing sweetbreads. Good local and Touraine wines.
MAXIM'S,4 rue St. Nicolas. This pleasant restaurant has little of the splendor of its namesake on the rue Royale, in Paris, hut it has the same culinary integrity. Monsieur Maxime Thiaudière, the proprietor, is a gifted chef and produces quenelles de brocket which rival the best in Burgundy. He also prepares chicken with a delicious sauce poitevine. Prices are reasonable.
LE CHAPON FIN,place Général Leclerc. This has long been a local favorite for regional dishes and still maintains its fine reputation.
Châtbllbrault
This cheerful town, located at the convergence of four river valleys, provides the epicurean highlight of the entire province, in our modest opinion:
HÔTEL DU FAISAN,6 rue Roffay-des-Pallus, is a very exciting place for an exacting gourmet. Occupying an attractive spot on the banks of the river Vienne, the hotel, conducted so capably by Monsieur Colpaert, is overshadowed by its wonderful restaurant. Here at last is la grande cuisine, with all its refinements and luxurious dishes, in a country town. We tried the escalope dv veau Maintenon and the irresistible tournedos béarnaise and were serenely content though frankly envious of a robust gentleman at the next table who was confronted with a beautiful lobster thermidor. The wines were splendid and the prices fair, considering the exalted cooking. We recommend it with every confidence that you will be more than pleased.
Montmorillon
This old-fashioned town on the banks of the river Gartempe has a country hotel of genuine merit; HÔTEL DE FRANCE.Recollections of delicious lamb chops and a very different duck dish remain in mind months after our luncheon in this old inn. Here is a good opportunity of assessing the simplicity of Poitou cookery and its superb ingredients. The prices are very fair.
Chaunay
If you happen to be motoring near this hamlet around lunchtime, you are in luck, for the atmospheric little HÔTEL CENTRAL is equipped to heap epicurean riches upon your table. Madame Motillon's menu contains the fine fundamentals but also lists such luxuries as truite meunière, pâté de foie gras, and poulet flambé. You are likely to have a charming rustic adventure in this modest inn.
In the département of the Deux-Sèvres are at least two towns for the inquiring gourmet—Thouars and Niort. Both are rather picturesque.
The HOSTELLERIE ST. MÉDARD in Thouars is a quiet country inn where you may taste some of the celebrated Poitou game dishes in season. Partridge in aspic, lark pâté, and the classic civet de liètre are a few of the temptations offered by Madame Boulithe.
The CAVEAU DE MESTRE PIERRE in Niort is something of a curiosity. In the stony confines of an old cellar, Monsieur Gillot has established a genial restaurant, amusingly decorated with murals. Troubadours sing old French songs, and an atmosphere of good humor pervades the place. The cooking is conscientious, the wine excellent, especially a local rosé, and the entertainment is not too insistent. It is a refreshing novelty.
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