1950s Archive

Food Flashes

Originally Published February 1950

Giving a party? Want cheese, lots of cheese to serve pass-the-tray fashion? Order the gold box from the Dairyland Cheese Company Madison 3, Wisconsin, and you get 9 ¾ pounds of cheese cut in large pieces of American, Brick, Swiss, Smoked Ham. Appetizer Bleu, La Gourmay, and a spread. The price is $10.90, west of Denver $11.25.

The Dairyland Cheese Company has a dozen box assortments, but one to interest the cheese especially is the kit carrying the cheeses of many lands. How appropriate that this comes out of Wisconsin, a state that is literally the melting pot of all nations. Among the hills of southwestern Wisconsin live the Swiss, descendants of those who settled there around 1854. On the eastern side of the state are the Dutch. Farther north is the largest group of all, the Scandinavians. Here also are the French, the Italians, the Germans. All good Americans, this third generation, but they have not forgotten the ways of Old World cheese-making handed down to them. The cheese made by these artists is not substitute, but the real thing, made from recipes and formulas brought over years ago and still used with the pride and care of the Old World craftsman. These are the cheeses Dairyland searches out to fill their baskets and boxes.

In the Foreign Types Box, which sells for $4.45 east of Denver, $4.60 west, are five types: Edam of Holland, Swiss of Switzerland, Gorgonzola of Italy, Romadour of Batavia, and La Gourmay of France.

Two years ago, the state's centennial year, Dairyland packed the Centennial Box of seven kinds of old-fashioned varieties. This proved so popular they still offer the assortment: American, Gouda, Lady Lynn, brick, smoked, La Gourmay, and caraway, a 4-pound total for $5 east of Denver, $5.20 west.

Yes, this firm has an old American cheese, too, one with real tang, the result of patient aging, the 5-pound loaf $4.50 postpaid east of Denver, $4.65 west.

Fat sassy, and altogether delectable—the salted peanuts we ordered in a 3-pound tin from the heart of the peanut country, Suffolk, Virginia. The Peanuts are supersize and all the same size, packed whole, not a skin in the lot, and generously salted, carefully cooked in pure vegetable oil, and given a uniform, golden-drown cast. We couldn't keep our hand out of the peanut tin once it came to rest on the desk. We'd pound down the lid, determined “not another bite.” Then there we'd be with the scissors, prying the lid loose again.

These are Cockey brand jumbo Virginia peanuts of proud heritage, born and bred in the very heart of America's most famous peanut land. Only the largest cream-of-the-crop nuts go into this pack. Tender to eat and just oily enough to moisten the lips. Three pounds anywhere in the United States for $2.25; address the Old Reliable Peanut Company, Department G, Suffolk, Virginia.

Two sauces to keep on the shelf are Diable and Robert, these the same sauces that were created and served by the world-renowned chef, A. Escoffier. The sauce diable is a piquant mix much appreciated with all kinds of grills. It may be used, too, in flavoring gravies and egg dishes. Blend it with butter, and it makes a good spread on bread for meat or fish sandwiches. We like it for Seasoning the stuffed potato. Let it lift the face of a salad, be it meat or fish.

Sance Robert has a more delicate flavor, yet one exciting for its subtlety. Best with chops, steaks, and cold meats. The sauces sell East Coast, West Coast, and cities in-between, the price around 95 cents for the 6-ounce bottle. Julius Wile Sons and Company of New York are the importers.

Our capacity for curry and plenty of chutney is a source of admiration for curry-eating friends. So When we recommend a chutney for trial, believe us, it isn't done absent-mindedly. We abhor chutneys of stray mixtures, not properly mellowed. When it comes to chutney, we are a bundle of prejudices. We like the exotic mixture to be of sweet-sour character, yet not sweet, not sour, not sharp, but gently spiced. We like chutney with a mango base, the fruit cut in fair sizes so there is something in earnest for the teeth to touch.

This month we found a chutney quite to our liking, Boral and Sen, Major Grey's India chutney, well known on the West Coast, only now being introduced in the East. It is made from sliced ripe mangoes with vinegar, with pure cane sugar, with spices, and the heat of ginger.

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