Originally the Indian preparation of mango chutney was sweet, hot, and sour in equal proportions—but too hot for a certain Major Grey in the Indian Army. He devised his own formula and had his neighborhood store prepare the blend. Others admired the Major Grey concoction, and it came gradually into commercial use. The Boral and Sen brand is one of the original Major Grey packs put up in Calcutta.If your local grocer can't supply you, write or have him write to Juillard Fancy Foods Company, 235 Front Street, San Francisco 11, California.
Good smoked salmon, cut thinly against the grain, is an estimable tidbit worthy of the finest table. Salmon, more than any other viand except ham, demands a skilled carver to interpret its beauty. Once the slices are thick or uneven, it loses enormously in the delicacy of its flavor. One of the finest Nova Scotia salmon we have tried is cured in Continental style and smoked by the Blue Ribbon Smoked Fish Company, Dept. G, 570 Smith Street, Brooklyn 31, selling sliced, and perfectly sliced as it should be, at ＄2.25 a pound. If you prefer to buy a large piece and do your own carving, you can get half a fish, about 3 pounds or a little more, at ＄2 the pound.
This firm has smoked sturgeon, also sliced, to sell at ＄5 a pound; unsliced, the whole piece, 1 ½ pounds or more. ＄4.75 a pound. Offered, too, are imported smoked rainbow trout about nine inches long. Good as a late evening repast are the flaked bits of the smoke-tinged fish laid on hot, buttered toast. Of course, wine to sip with your loaf and fishes. Price ＄1.25 per fish, shipped air-express charges collect. No C.O.D.'s please, not for these perishables.
Long have the one-portion soups been packed for restaurants and fountain bars, but not until now for the live-alone cooks. At least not such a cream-of-the-crop collection as the new Heublein Food Importing Company of New York has selected to put into small tins, each about 7½ ounces, every last one a luxury.
Stout, sustaining dish, the onion soup, its stock made with fresh marrow bones and turtle meat. The onions, the sweet Spanish of delicate aroma, sliced, sauteed .pb1 in butter, the ratio one hundred twenty pounds of onions to fifty gallons of stock. There is imported sherry and Chablis in the broth. The Chablis has a duty to perform, its job to encourage the flavor of the sherry. Heat the soup, turn it into a bowl, float on its surface a small raft of buttered toast laden with Parmesan, slide under the broiler until the cheese melts. There's a second onion soup in the set and superbly fine, this a la bretonne, flavored with a touch of tomato instead of wine.
The black bean soup, smooth and chocolate-colored, is enriched with tasty morsels of tender ham. Just for one, fresh lobster bisque made with creamery butter, highlighted with sherry. Fresh mushrooms are cooked in light cream to make a brew thickened with egg yolks, labeled cream of mushroom.
On the summer soup list is creamed vichyssoise, a jellied consomme, and a clear green turtle that jellies when chilled overnight. These individual portions are convenient for twosome families where tastes disagree. If he wants onion and she wants lobster, take your pick, folks. Heat and eat. Prices for three tins are as follows: vichyssoise 60 cents, onion 75 cents, Bretonne onion 75 cents, black bean 70 cents, jellied consomme 75 cents, clear green turtle ＄1.05, lobster bisque ＄1.05, creamed mushroom 85 cents; sold by Stumpp & Walter Company, Epicure Food Mart, Department GO, 132 Church Street, New York 8, as well as in other fine groceries across the country.
Stumpp and Walter also has something that's been scarce since the war, Bar-le-Duc jelly, 3¼-ounce jars,three for ＄1.70. This jelly is made of currants chosen for their extra large size, produced in the Departement of Meuse, in France, their name taken from the capital of the departement. The seeds are removed by skilled workers using goose quills sharpened to a fine point. The carefully seeded whole fruit is made into jelly, the boiling of brief duration, which leaves each currant plump and brightly red to gleam enticingly through the glass.
Serve the jelly with coeur a la cream, for instance. The last time GOURMET ran its recipe was in June, 1949. This is one to remember for a red-and-white dessert for that Valentine party.
Pickling the cherry is a brand-new idea borrowed from colonial housewives who pickled everything grown. The cherry is done in the manner of the olive but so different in texture, in flavor. Pretty, the stems left on and packed in two colors, the giant Bings almost black, the Royal Annes faintly golden. Serve them as olives on the snack tray or as a relish with dinner. Four jars,I pound each,＄3.55, or two of the jars, ＄1.85 delivered. Send check to Myron Foster's Hesperian Orachard (G-49), Wenatchee, Washington.
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