1940s Archive

Spécialités de la Maison

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Robert chooses his wines with great care. He loves wine and stocks only those of which he is most fond. You will find a remarkable collection of Rhine wines and fine Burgundies along with some really distinguished clarets. And all at prices which are not too apocryphal.

The other evening we tried one of his favorite champagnes, a blanc de blancs of 1937 which has a mark—Salon—little known in this country. It is extremely dry with a most pleasant bouquet and a magnificent color. Not a fruity champagne, if such is your delight, but thoroughly pleasant.

You may lunch or dine at Robert's any day except Sunday. It is in the de luxe class, although not overly expensive. Dinner entrees start at around $2.50. Luncheon is moderately priced. Go to enjoy good food and good wines and liquors and do not rush.

Are you one of those stay-late-at-the-office persons who simply cannot adjust the work in hand to the hours of the day? Or are you one of the legion who think it easier to have a sandwich at the desk than to wait to be served in a restaurant? Perhaps you enjoy a late dinner in the spring and an early dinner during the summer. Well, it is such as you with varying dining habits of whom we are thinking.

We have long felt that Longchamps was a boon to those who want good food at odd hours, and it has been our habit to drop in now and then for dinner or supper at one of the various spots where we happened to be. But recently it occurred to us that this chain of most excellent restaurants is doing a unique service to the gustatory habits of New York. We are aware of where to go if we wish to dine impressively and plushily; where to go when we want international food of one type or another; where to go when we wish a certain style of cooking which is different from any other in the metropolis; but where to go when it is late or when we want a single dish with a drink or a bottle of wine is often a perplexing problem. The answer is Longchamps.

It is over twenty years since I heard about the restaurants that bear this name. I happened to be sharing a cabin on the old “Paris” of the French line with one of the managers of a Longchamps restaurant, and his conversation en route to New York awakened my curiosity. I accepted his invitation to dine with eagerness. Then, as now, there were the same distinguishing features that make these restaurants unusual in the country—the same window displays of garden-fresh vegetables and luscious pastries, the same careful way of preparing vegetables, the same all-encompassing menus, and the same pleasant and cheerful service.

To me, aside from the fact that it is always possible to find something on the Longchamps menu which is attractive for any meal, there are certain perennial dishes which are distinctive. Their calf's liver sauté, New Orleans prawns, hamburger steak platter, and chops never seem to vary in quality or quantity. I have had excellent success with steaks there as well. Not long since, we had minute steaks which were perfection and cooked as well as any restaurant in New York can do them. And when a vegetable is served, it has flavor and fresh quality which might well be an example to many restaurants which present their vegetables with an undeserved aura of chichi.

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