It is like writing about home to write about the Chalet Suisse, for I have lunched and dined there many times over a period of years. There is an honest, homely quality about the food that Mr. and Mrs. Baertschi serve which I find most refreshing, and the menu offers certain dishes which are difficult to find elsewhere. Many French and Swiss folk who are well known in the foreign colonies of New York are seen there repeatedly. There is always, for example, an excellent salade de museau de boeuf, steer's muzzle vinaigrette. I know of no other spot in town where you can depend upon finding it. There are a delicious ramequin of Swiss cheese, cervelat salad, and mussels marinière.
Among the entrees which we have become accustomed to order and reorder is the minced veal à la suisse, which is always on the menu because of its great popularity. And the gnocchi à la romaine is worth a visit, as is the onion-andcheese pie which you will find a perfect luncheon entree at any time. There is always Bratwurst or Bauernwurst—I prefer mine grilled without onion, but let your palate be your guide. Liver balls with sauerkraut or rippli with sauerkraut are delicious. The other night my tasting companion and I had an entrecôte grillé which was magnificent. Grilled perfectly and sliced in pleasantly thin slices and not in chunks, as much too often happens, it was meltingly delicious.
Should you want a true fondue in the Swiss manner, you have only to ask for it. For a large party, however, it is the better part of wisdom to call in advance to make arrangements. The other night there was a gay party of ten young men, an international group, dipping away at fondue. Their enthusiasm proved the excellence of the dish. Toss discretion to the winds when you start dipping fondue but hold to the kirsch or the coffee line for liquid accompaniment—it is the perfect companion. And don't forget an occasional drink of kirsch for the casserole as you dip along.
Desserts are on the usual side except for an excellent Swiss apple tart and one of the best crème caramel to be found in New York. And there is always real Switzerland Swiss cheese. What could be a more perfect finish for a Swiss meal?
A good selection of Swiss, French, and American wines at reasonable prices is cellared at the Chalet Suisse. The Fendant du Valais, a most refreshing drink for spring and summer, is around ＄3 a bottle. Good wine at reasonable prices or excellent beer is a necessary complement to many of the dishes. We had an elegant bock beer the other night.
The Baertschis also operate the Cornwall Inn at Cornwall on the Hudson, where you will find the same type of food when you are motoring during spring and summer.
Luncheon entrees complete with dessert and coffee range from ＄1.25 to around ＄3, with appetizers or soup extra. Dinner, complete at the entree price, runs from ＄2 to ＄3.50.
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