1940s Archive

Food Flashes

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The importer tells us he has 100,000 pounds of these candies in revolving stock. In New York City Finlandia sells at Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue; across the river in Brooklyn, find them at Ecklebe & Guyer, 1 DeKalb Avenue; at Fox and Company and Sage and Allen, Hartford, Connecticut; Marshall Field, in Chicago.

World-famous herring is the Capitaine Cook, coming from France, marinated in white wine, packed with a slice of sweet onion, a slice of lemon, First shipment since 1940 has arrived in New York and is around in the stores, the 11-ounce tin selling for around $1.10 at Seven Park Avenue Foods, 109 East 34th Street. The herring is dressed in the round, head off, skin off, 4 to a tin, each about 5 inches long. The marinade treatment gives a fish most tender, most delicate, a product inimitable. The flavor of old france returns with the herring. They come seasoned of the mist and sunshine of the Brittany Coast, holding something of the magic of the cobbled old streets where the blue fishing nets are spread out to dry.

Welcome wheatmeal “Digestive” biscuit from Carr's factory in England, but no longer labeled “Digestive.” What's so digestible about a mere cracker? Ask the government boys who take care of matters regarding the Food and Drug rulings. Now the round, flat biscuits packed in the tall cannister come labeled “Wheatsworth.” the price is $1.258 for the 15-ounce tin, selling in New York at Enoch's Delicatessen, 872 Madison Avenue, and Hammacher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th Street. The Abraham & Straus grocery has the item for Brooklyn. With the arrival of Wheatsworth, the Carr family, which started its trek back in December, is almost complete, but two members are missing: the Cumberland biscuit and the afternoon teas. It's good to see the picture-wrapped tins again in circulation, and to read the familiar old names, Charm, Fisher Boy, Sally, Carnival, Springtime, and such, which designate the different sweets of the line.

When Sally Munro was asked to run a candy booth at a church bazaar, she dug out grandma's recipes and made a sale feature of old-time sweets. This was during war years when good candy was at a premium, and crowds pressed in three deep to buy. Sally sold out almost before she got started. Followed a deluge of telephone calls from local women offering to bring in their own sugar if Sally would take a hand with the candy. When the sugar situation eased, Mrs. Munro decided to make candy her business, in partnership with her son.

The Munros moved into Burlington, Vermont, opened a candy kitchen to make “Lucullus Tidbits.” As Sally explains, “I chose the name because I felt the candy was good enough to have pleased that great Roman host.” Her chocolates are in a great variety of shapes, with innumerable fillings of nuts, creams, and fruits. Surprising thing is that the candies, although they are made in very small batches by home technique, wear a professional air, each piece sleek and trim. Some are topped with silver dragés, others carry fondant flowers, nut halves, chocolate sprinkles. The price is $2.50 the 1 ½ pound box, about 65 pieces. Order from Lucullus Tidbits, 28 School Street, Burlington, Vermont. Postage is extra.

Supercolossal the green ripe olives, each as big as a plum, the flesh firm and meaty, packed with the seed, Old Monk the brand. These olives are picked one at a time, handled with care, not to bruise or to mar. No chance for these olives to wilt and to wither, for they are packed the day they are picked. Tins holding 16 of theb wolrd's finest olives, each one like the other in size and in shape, are at Maison Glass, 15 East 47th Street, New York, the price 65 cents.

It's the month of the wafer—new arrivals from abroad, new originals appearing along the home biscuit front. Stickbits are the newest wafer wizardry of the spring. Hollow, crisp, strawlike affairs, these come 20 to 25 pieces to a box, stuffed with cream fillings, three sweet, one savory. The Carlsbad almond is the top favorite, the filling vanilla cream blended with crushed roasted almonds. One stick has a stuffing of French chocolate cream, mixed with finely ground hazelnuts. A third holds the same cream, but Jamaica—rum-flavored and the filled wafers chocolate-dipped, all rich as candy. Twenty of these to a box price $1. The other sticks pack 25 to a tin for 85 cents. The cocktain stick holds a softened Sardi cheese, but it lacks the distinctive character of the sweet varieties. There is a Stickbit for every occasion. Chocolate and hazelnut go nicely with ice cream, are good to pass with stewed fruit or the fresh-fruit compote. The almond is a natural with port. Cheese stick is tailored to accompany the cocktails, or to pass with salad.

Stickbits are packed in tin boxes, the lids decorated with allover patterns of birds, flowers, hearts, butterflies—done in peasant effect. The new wafer is the latest creation of the Transatlantic Biscuit Company, makers of the Carlsbad Oblaten. Do you know the Oblaten which comes in pie-shaped pieces, the wafer composed of thin layers sandwiched with sweet fillings such as vanilla cream mixed with crushed roasted almonds? Frou Frou has a hazelnut filling, the piece chocolate-covered. Chocolate Doublette is filled with a plain bitter-sweet chocolate cream. Hazelnut cream fills the Hazelnut Fancies.

All available at Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue, Vendome Table Delicacies, 415 Madison Avenue, and Bloomingdale's, Lexington Avenue at 59th Street.

Stroop waffle comes to America for the first time, a Gouda, Holland, product as famous in its way as the cheese of the town and the stained-glass windows. This wafer is like the French, gaufrette, only this a sandwiched proposition, put together two by two with a golden syrup, sticky and tasting like heaven.

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