1940s Archive

Food Flashes

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A third item from this firm is a finely grated Italian-style cheese blend of Parmesan type, fresh and sharply flavored, very dry. It comes packed in a reuse jar, 4 ounces 42 cents, 2 ounces 29 cents, selling in the same shops with the mushrooms and onions.

Motta of Milano, Italy, is exporting again their fine candies, cakes, marron products, and the preserved fruits in mustard. Candy fanatics cheer the chocolate piece called the ginduia, a truffle of sorts made with cocoa and sugar and finely ground hazelnuts. Smooth to the tongue as the touch of peeled peaches.

The Motta nougat arrives in a variety of flavors, some blocks with almonds, other pieces with pistachio, others littered with filberts. A brittle nougat, but a bite in the mouth melts almost on the instant and without the least chew. Other sweets in the line are fondants, jellies, creams, marzipan, and don't overlook the excellent hard candies.

Panettone by Motta's is the only cake of this type made in Italy for export. The firm sends this high-humped sweet loaf traveling the world. A self-risen sweet bread with keeping qualities unbelievable, staying fresh in its double paper wrapper four to six months. A most rich affair whose ingredients, fresh sweet butter, sugar, eggs, flour, and fruits are added bit by bit at various stages of a 36-hour preparation. Sultana raisins, citron, and peels are sprinkled in generously, never the candied cherries so commonly used by Italian bakers in the States. Vanilla and lemon to flavor the cake, but it's the butter from Lombardy that gives the distinctive sweet richness.

Panettone was once a Christmas cake only, but Motta's have promoted it for year-round use, and in Milan it is eaten commonly as a breakfast sweet with coffee. It is served with wine any time; a great favorite for the picnic. Another cake exported by this house is Dolce Paradiso, a rich pound loaf with cherries and almonds, chocolate-frosted. Pound blocks sell for around $2. A cake made with egg yolks, fresh butter, wrapped in foil which keeps it moist and sweet for many weeks.

Fruits in mustard is a Noah's Ark of fruits, these cut in halves, quartered, or left whole, sauced in their own thin syrup, made hot with fresh ginger and horseradish root and enough English mustard to make a chest poultice. Huddled together in hot conspiracy are pears, green figs, tangerines, plums, citron, green almonds, cherries, peaches, orange, and apricots. A delectable relish to accompany boiled beef.

Those eclectic in their tastes must have a look at the Motta marrons, large, tender, each chestnut perfect. To prepare for marrons glacés the nuts are soaked in a sugar solution until saturated with sweetness, then packed in the syrup.

Puréed glacéed chestnuts, Marronita the name, is a dark, thick paste with dozens of uses in Italian and French kitchens. This is to be thinned with sherry or brandy for saucing the pudding. It mixes with whipped cream and may be used for topping desserts, for the filling in refrigerator cakes. Pear Marronita is a typical Italian dessert made with the purée: Place ice cream in a glass dish, over this a half pear, hollow side down. Cover with Marronita diluted with sherry or brandy, add dots of whipped cream.

The marrons, the whole ones in vanilla syrup, also in rum, the puréed, the glacéed glamour fruits in mustard, all the Motta brand, are handled in New York City by Bloomingdale Brothers at Lexington Avenue and 59th Street. The Dolce Paradiso is at Vendome Table Delicacies, 415 Madison Avenue, and at Gimbels, Broadway and 33rd Street. Manganari Brothers, Inc., 488 Ninth Avenue and the Trinacria Company, 415 Third Avenue, have the panettone. The candies can be spotted in dozens of the New York tony food bazaars, but specifically at Hicks', 37 West 57th Street. Motta's delicacies are selling also in leading delicacy shops in Chicago, Detroit, Cleveland, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle, Philadelphia, Washington, D. C., Boston, and Miami.

Chocolate brownies, strewn with hazelnut halves, cut finger-length, are packed end up in tins for overseas shipment. Handy Andies for times you need a sweet bite in a hurry to pass with coffee or tea to the drop-in caller. This brownie is on the cake side, not so moist and chewy or rich as the homemade, but good for all that. It's selling at the Brass Rail Food Shop, 521 Fifth Avenue.

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