Mulligatawny paste arrives from British India under the Peacock label of the Bombay firm of P. Vencatachellum Company, selling in New York at TelBurn 161 East 53rd Street, $2.50 a pound. What in tunket? A stuff like curry paste. made with the same ingredients but in varying proportions; tamarind the plus item to give the big flavor difference. Use the product in the making of curries as a flavoring for soups and meat dishes. The Major Grey and the Colonel Skinner chutneys are on the TelBurn shelves; also that much sought-after Nepal pepper and the Tapp sauce out of Madras.
A eulogy as long as your arm should be written to Deming's extra-fancy Royal Yukon Chinook Salmon making its grocery-store debut. It's a salmon extra fancy, it's boneless, it's rich in natural oil and has a fine mellow flavor, a bright pink color, soft-textured with large meaty flakes—a salmon for those who want the finer things for their table.
The Chinook, king of salmon, is used for this pack, and only those fish which weigh around fifty pounds taken from the far northern Yukon River and carefully selected for prime condition.
So delicate the fish, the tins must have gentle treatment or the flesh will be broken. Great precaution is used in the shipping, each can packed upright, wrapped in tissue paper to ease the bumps of the journey. Cases are kept right side up and dealers are warned to “handle with care.” The salmon comes in 15 ½-ounce tins, enough for four servings or two cups of salmon, the price ranging from $1.15 to $1.35, at the following shops: Hammacher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th Street; Hunter's Food Market, 1226 Lexington Avenue; William Poll, 1120 Lexington Avenue; United Farms, 72 University Place; Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue; R. H. Macy, Herald Square; and the Gristede stores.
Deming and Gould, leaders in the salmon-packing field, keep their researches busy developing new packaging ideas. Sam-O-Lets, their newest, boasts the first great improvement in salmon-canning in twenty-five years. This pack is of keta, a light meat species prepared by a new process which removes the skin and backbone of the fish, giving a pack tender and delicate and of better appearance. Keta is the salmon preferred by Alaskan fishermen, so excellent its flavor. Sam-O-Lets are less expensive than the fancy deep pink Chinook, yet may be used in all the same ways. It turns from the tin in a near little mold, to be served in this fashion or used in lumps for a salad, shredded for sandwiches, and in casserole dishes. Dudley and Weisl, Inc., of 100 Hudson Street, New York City, are the Eastern distributors.
Dean of the homemade candy makers was Miss Emma Brun, sixty years making candy in her kitchen on Manhattan Island. Fabulous her caramels, small dark chocolate squares, to lie like velvet softly in a corner of the cheek, melting to cream in the mouth. And no wonder! To every eight pounds of candy one pound of butter, one quart of cream. And cream loaded the Brun fudge, made with white and medium-brown sugar, the brown to give the slight grain. The salted nuts she guaranteed perfect.
We interviewed Miss Brun on her eightieth birthday when she was still making candy. “What do you think of all these modern candy stores, mirrored, bronze-fitted, moving into your neighborhood?” we asked this dark akimbo sort of woman. “Oh!” she said, “those!” nodding her head in the direction of Madison Avenue's latest pink-plush-quilted candy emporium, “It's cream and butter that counts with candy more than fancy make-up.”
During the last few years of Emma Brun's life she shared her shop with cake-baker Martha Roche, maker of New York's famous Palm Beach layer cake, the one domed in a snowfall of fresh grated coconut. When Emma died a few years ago, she left her recipes to Martha, her friend. The Brun candies and the fine salted nuts are made now by Mrs. Roche and sold under the Brun name. The candies are made only to order, the price $2 a pound, salted almonds $2.50, and the mixed nuts $2, postage extra. Address the Palm Beach Cake Kitchen, 40-40 Northern Boulevard, Long Island City, New York.
Titivating to the palate those cocktail mushrooms, tiniest of the “pixie umbrellas,” packed in a highly seasoned tart sauce of oil sharpened with vinegar; similar as peas in a pod and ever so tender. The miniature cocktail onion is running mate to the mushrooms, these packed in oil, highly seasoned. Handled by B. Altman and other specialty shops in Manhattan; mushrooms ＄1, cocktail onions 79 cents for the 8-ounce jar, packed by C. J. Introvigne and Son of West Springfield, Massachusett.
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